Clogs and avoiding them
2004-08-04 by Steve Taylor
Dear All I have a bit of a tale here about clogs, and the conclusions I have come to. I would be interested to hear peoples' comments on whether these conclusions make sense, or if they are total garbage! I have an Epson 1290 printer with MIS UT2 in it, and it produced top quality pics. One day in mid May (I think) I didn't use it for about a week and it developed a clog on the Lm colour. The symptoms were: not being able to get a good nozzle check on the Lm most of the time, but then I could, but a print of the purge6 would result in the Lm colour starting fine but then fading and banding horribly. I tried (in this order): 1) repeated Epson head cleaning interspersed with purge 6 printing every 3 cleaning cycles (I probably did about 10 in one day) 2) putting Epson T007 & T009 cartridges in and trying 1) 3) purging the MIS cartridges of foamy ink by drawing the ink through the exit ports with a syringe and the bottom fill adaptor. Trying 1) with the MIS cartridges in again. 4) I tried 2) but with increasingly long waiting times. 5) MIS cleaning fluid on the parking pad. 6) MIS Direct inject trick. None seemed to make any noticeable improvement. All this was until this week, and I was trying a clean with the T007 and T009 (now cheap versions as I was spending a fortune on Epson ones). The clogging was getting worse it seemed and I could not get much of the Lm colour to print in a nozzle check, and if it did it was fuzzy and faint. I finally gave up hope on Saturday and had what I thought was a brainwave. I had all the parts to build a new CIS, so what if I got rid of the Lm colour completely and put the Lm ink in the yellow position? I looked at the sepia curves, and the yellow did indeed kick in when the Lm did in the more neutral curves, so I thought I could use the sepia curves and get the more neutral effects. I didn't use the sepia ink much anyway, and having a printer that did more than occupy desk space and gather dust seemed attractive - so I didn't think I had much to lose by trying it. I spent most of Sunday building the CIS cartridges, but while I was waiting for the glue to dry, I was reading around and found a page that recommended the MIS direct inject solution of forcing MIS cleaning fluid into the printer head "spike" to hopefully clear a clog. This page went a bit further in that it recommended pushing some fluid in, then drawing it out. Since I had a plan to do away with the Lm position anyway I thought it wouldn't hurt. I tried this and a lot of colour came out, together with a LOT of air bubbles. The page said to finish on a push, which I did. I put the T007 & T009 cartridges in and the improvement was dramatic. Not perfect, but a quantum leap from what I had been experiencing. I printed a purge 6, and got a perfect start, but it tailed off again. I tried some more cleaning cycles (using the SSC service utility on powerful clean) and could nearly always get back to a good nozzle check, and it was a long time since that happened. Heartened by these improvements, I tried the same direct inject procedure again last night, and the nozzle checks seemed to get better quicker. Still no perfect purge 6 though. Tonight I came in and tried a nozzle check (fine) and a purge6. Also fine. I then tried another purge6. Again fine! Its been ages since this happened. I tried an A3 colour print with the aftermarket T007 & T009 cartridges. This was also fine. I don't think I am out of the woods yet, as I have not put the UT2 CIS back in, but the improvement using the direct inject push pull trick was dramatic. From this I conclude that I will not leave the CIS in the printer, but put it in when I need it. I will put a T007 and T009 in when the printer is not used - given this experience, this seems to avoid clogging as they are dye inks, which were what the printer was designed for. I have an 1160 with Lyson SG dye based inks in, which spends long periods not being used, but it has never clogged. So anyway I never tried my idea of putting the Lm ink in the yellow position and using the sepia curves to get neutral prints. However I reckon it would have a reasonable chance of working, and would be a lot better than having a printer that didn't do anything. What do people think? Hope this helps someone - I am merely posting my experience and what (hopefully) worked for me. Anyone that tries anything here does so at their own risk. I had nothing to lose though! Sorry this was long, and hope it helps someone. I thought my printer would end up on the rubbish tip. But it seems to have risen from the dead! Steve Taylor