Digital BW, The Print

I guess this is a bit off topic, but in the realm of digital printing 
is part of the process. I would like to know how people are 
accomplishing edge burning techniques in Photoshop?

I find this to be one difficult task. Not because it is hard, but 
because I never asked nor learned how to do it. It is not covered in 
the texts that I have read.

Mike

I do it one of two ways, depending on how big the scan is. I 
normally work with a 999 pixel brush, with soft edges. I burn in 
using the Highlight and Midtones tool. (But make sure you don't 
burn in highlights too much using the Midtones tool, cause it'll 
leave this very grainy look, because the midtone tool is grabbing 
only the midtone grain.) You can do this locally, if you don't want 
too much of a uniform line of burning. (Why no brush allowed 
larger than 999, I want to know?)

If the scan is large, say 24x24x360dpi, I use the lasso tool and 
draw a very crude selection all the way around the outer regions 
of the image. Then I feather it 250pixels (thanks Jerry, didnt' 
know you could feather a feather either). Then I invert the 
selection and use Curves to burn down this outer area. You can 
use Levels also, but sometimes you want to burn down the 
highlights more, so Curves is more accurate.

If I'm working with an image that's scanned full-frame, with the 
black edges showing, you've also got to remember to use the 
MagicWand to deselect the white area outside the frame, or else 
you'll end up burning down that area too, which is bad.

You can use this same Lasso technique to do vaseline-edge 
diffusion too -- after you burn in the edges, then keep that 
feathered selection and then do Gaussian Blur on the outer 
areas, where vaseline would normally be. But make SURE to 
then immediately view the image at 100% and then AddNoise to 
rebuild the texture of the film grain, or else you'll have this 
"feminine hygiene" look to the image -- too gooshy/poetic/soft. 
And it'll looked Photoshopped too.

If you want to do a view camera 4x5 tilt look, then do a mask with 
a Gradient Blend, and then a GaussianBlur, and the focus will 
taper out in a linear fashion, just like a view camera focus would. 
But again, don't forget the rebuild the grain structure in the 
GBlurred areas.

These are just my simpleton techniques. And I ALWAYS work 
right on the image, never on an Adjustment Layer. You gotta feel 
the rush of maybe screwing up; you can't leave yourself a safety 
net...!

http://marktucker.com/


-----------

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "mkravit" 
<michael.kravit@w...> wrote:

> I guess this is a bit off topic, but in the realm of digital printing 
> is part of the process. I would like to know how people are 
> accomplishing edge burning techniques in Photoshop?

Mike

The best way to do this is to create a new layer like this:

 Layer/New Layer and set Mode to Overlay in the dialog. Then check Fill
with Overlay - neutral color (50%grey)
Then use the Paintbrush tool with different opacities and sizes. (black
to burn and white to dodge) You can also use the dodge and burn tools.
Not only is this layer always editable, but you can also set the layer
opacity as well as the Paintbrush opacity. Very flexible.

Murray Z.

**********************

Subject: [Digital BW] OT-Edge Burining Techniques

I guess this is a bit off topic, but in the realm of digital printing 
is part of the process. I would like to know how people are 
accomplishing edge burning techniques in Photoshop?

I find this to be one difficult task. Not because it is hard, but 
because I never asked nor learned how to do it. It is not covered in 
the texts that I have read.

Mike

Hi Mike,

Sometimes I like to dup the image layer, set the blend mode to multiply,
create layer mask, fill layer mask with black and then paint layer mask with
largest soft brush with white, then detail with various sizes... erasing
with black, adding with white.  Then play with the opacity of the multiplied
layer. I find I get less strangeness than from using the burn tool on
certain images.

Carolyn

> 
> I guess this is a bit off topic, but in the realm of digital printing
> is part of the process. I would like to know how people are
> accomplishing edge burning techniques in Photoshop?
> 
> I find this to be one difficult task. Not because it is hard, but
> because I never asked nor learned how to do it. It is not covered in
> the texts that I have read.
> 
> Mike

This could indeed become a bottomless pit, however I would welcome a 
somewhat more shallow pit of tips specifically related to traditional "wet" 
darkroom techniques.  I learned a ton from the burning and dodging thread.

I for one would love some pointers on sky replacement.  Specifically, how 
to make and control the selection into which the sky is inserted and how to 
conceal the foreground/background boundary.  Treelines, for example.  How 
do you deal with such a complex boundary?

Peter McLennan

Jerry,

Very nice! -- feather the feather.

Helene


> draw an appropriate size oval in the middle of your image. Feather 250
> pixels, then feather again at about 100 pixels.
> 
> Invert the selection
> 
> Then, just use an adjustment layer and an overall curve adjustment to
> darken the edges the exact amount you want them. Works like a charm.
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Murray,
does this work in grayscale Mode? When I tried your technique I got a 
message that said " Could not use the history brush because the mode 
does not match that of the history state.

Steve Schaefer


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Murray Zaharia" <
zaharia@t...> wrote:

> 
> Mike
> 
> The best way to do this is to create a new layer like this:
> 
>  Layer/New Layer and set Mode to Overlay in the dialog. Then check Fill
> with Overlay - neutral color (50%grey)
> Then use the Paintbrush tool with different opacities and sizes. (black
> to burn and white to dodge) You can also use the dodge and burn tools.
> Not only is this layer always editable, but you can also set the layer
> opacity as well as the Paintbrush opacity. Very flexible.
> 
> Murray Z.
> 
> **********************
> Subject: [Digital BW] OT-Edge Burining Techniques
> 
> I guess this is a bit off topic, but in the realm of digital printing 
> is part of the process. I would like to know how people are 
> accomplishing edge burning techniques in Photoshop?
> 
> I find this to be one difficult task. Not because it is hard, but 
> because I never asked nor learned how to do it. It is not covered in 
> the texts that I have read.
> 
> Mike

Won't work if you're trying to paint from a history of color into B&W 
or vice versa.

Tim Spragens

> does this work in grayscale Mode? When I tried your technique I got a
> message that said " Could not use the history brush because the mode
> does not match that of the history state.
--
Tim Spragens
http://www.borderless-photos.com
&
http://www.borderless-photos.de

Yes. Do NOT use the history brush with this technique. Use the regular
paintbrush or dodge and burn tools as I stated below.

Murray
*************

Murray,
does this work in grayscale Mode? When I tried your technique I got a 
message that said " Could not use the history brush because the mode 
does not match that of the history state.

Steve Schaefer


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Murray Zaharia" <
zaharia@t...> wrote:
> 
> Mike
> 
> The best way to do this is to create a new layer like this:
> 
>  Layer/New Layer and set Mode to Overlay in the dialog. Then check
Fill
> with Overlay - neutral color (50%grey)
> Then use the Paintbrush tool with different opacities and sizes.
(black

> to burn and white to dodge) You can also use the dodge and burn tools.
> Not only is this layer always editable, but you can also set the layer
> opacity as well as the Paintbrush opacity. Very flexible.
> 
> Murray Z.