Digital BW, The Print

I figure the 1280 is as easy a place to start as any.  the r220 and
others are smaller, so I can use th 1280 for larger color if need be.
 I went with eboni matte cartridge for BO for now. 

 I have tried many prints on EEM at 4" (quarter size).  I am not in
awe.  I have downloaded Pauls curves, and ICC's but these are for UT2
not BO right?  I have tried other curves for eboni only, followed
workflow for RGB tweaks to the color matrix, hue and altered when I
convert to greyscale in the process.  

So, for those not moving on to UT-3D and the  2400...what is your
workflow?

I print on the 1280 with MIS UTFS inks via IJC/OPM and the prints are beyond gorgeous.

mowens <mowensmd@...> wrote:                                  I figure the 1280 is as easy a place to start as any.  the r220 and
 others are smaller, so I can use th 1280 for larger color if need be.
  I went with eboni matte cartridge for BO for now. 
 
 I have tried many prints on EEM at 4" (quarter size).  I am not in
 awe.  I have downloaded Pauls curves, and ICC's but these are for UT2
 not BO right?  I have tried other curves for eboni only, followed
 workflow for RGB tweaks to the color matrix, hue and altered when I
 convert to greyscale in the process.  
 
 So, for those not moving on to UT-3D and the  2400...what is your
 workflow?  
 
 
     
                       

 			
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I have been using a 1280 for about 3 yrs now..  originally I used the epson Black ink Only and got great results printing directly out of Photoshop. Recently I tried the MIS inks with total failure    flat prints, meaning low contrast..  now it just so happens that I also changed computers at the same time so calibration might have been an issue. I gave up on the full gamut printing and went to BO with the eboni ink..  even that was quite a problem untill I adjusted my monitor to match my output. This did not work for me by using the photoshop utility. I had to do it by eye.. I now get what I see. The other thing I had to re learn for some unknown reason was how to adjust levels to get the contrast I need.. this usually means blowing out the highlights and then burning..  this is working real well for me..   I do wonder though if I even need the Eboni ink.... I think I am back were I started with the epson ink with the disadvantage that it will not allow me to print to
 glossy paper..

This can all be rather nerve racking and disappointing at times....  just hang in there.. I would say forget about all the profiles for now and just figure out a way to make the BO work for you in a simple manner...  after all if you can't do that you may never know were you are going.

Hope this helps

Bernard

Denise <d_de_mille@...> wrote:                                  I print on the 1280 with MIS UTFS inks via IJC/OPM and the prints are beyond gorgeous.
 
 mowens <mowensmd@...m> wrote:                                  I figure the 1280 is as easy a place to start as any.  the r220 and
  others are smaller, so I can use th 1280 for larger color if need be.
   I went with eboni matte cartridge for BO for now. 
  
  I have tried many prints on EEM at 4" (quarter size).  I am not in
  awe.  I have downloaded Pauls curves, and ICC's but these are for UT2
  not BO right?  I have tried other curves for eboni only, followed
  workflow for RGB tweaks to the color matrix, hue and altered when I
  convert to greyscale in the process.  
  
  So, for those not moving on to UT-3D and the  2400...what is your
  workflow?  
  
  
      
                        
 
    
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Bernard,

>I have been using a 1280 for about 3 yrs now.. originally I used 
>the epson Black ink Only and got great results printing directly 
>out of Photoshop. Recently I tried the MIS inks with total failure 
>flat prints, meaning low contrast..

Don't expect pigment black to reach the same dmax as a dye.  This may be one
difference you're noticing.  

> now it just so happens that I also changed computers at the same 
>time so calibration might have been an issue.

Matching the monitor to the print could be another issue.  The inks are
going to print differently.  It's likely the file will need work to look the
same as previously.

>I gave up on the full gamut printing 

Without knowing what inkset you're using, it's hard to say what the issues
may be.  

>and went to BO with the eboni ink.. even that was quite a problem
> untill I adjusted my monitor to match my output. This did not
> work for me by using the photoshop utility. I had to do it by eye.. 

Except for the newer workflows that are "color managed," the B&W workflows
often need a custom dot gain curve (see
http://home1.gte.net/res09aij/Monitor-Profiling.htm ) or a curves adjustment
layer to get a good match between the monitor and the print.

> The other thing I had to re learn for some unknown reason was 
>how to adjust levels to get the contrast I need.. this usually
> means blowing out the highlights and then burning.. 
>this is working real well for me..

There's a lot to learn in Photoshop.  Use the Alt key with the levels
adjustment to be sure you don't lose information.  Levels needs to be set
carefully, but I'd use curves once the levels makes sure the full range of
tones is in the file.

> I do wonder though if I even need the Eboni ink.... I think 
>I am back were I started with the epson ink with the disadvantage 
>that it will not allow me to print to glossy paper..

With pigments you need to change inks when moving from matte to glossy
paper.  There are lots of reasons to avoid the OEM dye inks if you want top
notch B&W.  But there is a bit of a learning curve with pigments.

Good luck.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

BO works with my photo style but it's not for everyone. Try the UT-2
inkset, it's about as bulletproof as you can get. And the Paul Roark
workflows work great. 

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "mowens"
<mowensmd@...> wrote:

>
> I figure the 1280 is as easy a place to start as any.  the r220 and
> others are smaller, so I can use th 1280 for larger color if need be.
>  I went with eboni matte cartridge for BO for now. 
> 
>  I have tried many prints on EEM at 4" (quarter size).  I am not in
> awe.  I have downloaded Pauls curves, and ICC's but these are for UT2
> not BO right?  I have tried other curves for eboni only, followed
> workflow for RGB tweaks to the color matrix, hue and altered when I
> convert to greyscale in the process.  
> 
> So, for those not moving on to UT-3D and the  2400...what is your
> workflow?
>