Digital BW, The Print

On Windows XP and using CS3, I print toned monochromes on an Epson 
2400. Both monitor and printer/paper combination are calibrated. I use 
an LCD monitor, and the printer output when viewed under a bright 
white bulb corresponds well to the appearance on the monitor. However 
in lower viewing light levels as, say, a camera club venue, shadow 
details are more difficult to discern. This more of a problem with 
images that are printed more darkly, which, in my case, is quite a 
high proportion.
I have tried applying a brightening levels adjustment, but, having 
worked hard to produce subtle shadow detail, I feel this is a very 
blunt tool for solving my problem.
Have others experienced this problem? If so, how have you approached 
the problem?
Many thanks
John

John ­ I have found that for critical purposes, I need to often have two
sets of prints.  One is made for portfolio use where I will be showing the
prints bare (no glass/frame) and another for when the prints will be hung
under glass.  This is for the same reason you mentioned; the dark values
lose some clarity when they are viewed under lower light than I¹ve used for
printing/correcting.

Unfortunately, there is no standard lux level or lighting arrangement used
from space to space.  Museums these days typically use lower light levels
than they used to for issues of conservation.   Unless you were able to go
into a space in which your prints will be shown and compare a couple of
prints under glass to see which look best, you will probably just be
guessing at the adjustment you¹ll need to make to compensate for the lower
light,

If you are going to make an adjustment, you could do it in a number of ways.
You could make a PSD copy of the file that prints correctly, and create an
adjustment layer for levels (you could bump up the output level slider below
the histogram to open up the dark end), for curves, etc., and make prints at
a few different settings for comparison.  Be sure to mark each print as you
make it so that you don¹t lose track of the changes you¹ve made.

Stephen 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>>On Windows XP and using CS3, I print toned monochromes on an Epson
2400. Both monitor and printer/paper combination are calibrated. I use
an LCD monitor, and the printer output when viewed under a bright
white bulb corresponds well to the appearance on the monitor. However
in lower viewing light levels as, say, a camera club venue, shadow
details are more difficult to discern. This more of a problem with
images that are printed more darkly, which, in my case, is quite a
high proportion.
I have tried applying a brightening levels adjustment, but, having
worked hard to produce subtle shadow detail, I feel this is a very
blunt tool for solving my problem.
Have others experienced this problem? If so, how have you approached
the problem?

There are two tools typically used by PrintFIX PRO owners for this 
issue. One is the Viewing Light Level slider, which adjusts the print 
density globally. The other is the Shadow Detail slider, which targets 
just the shadow details. Nothing in either that can't be accomplished, 
this just builds profile versions for making your selected adjustment 
to any print.

C. David Tobie
Product Technology Manager
ColorVision, Inc.
CDTobie@...
www.colorvision.com
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Have you taken a light meter with you to the camera club and measured the
light? I presume that they know what one is right? And that it would be a
great idea to standardize the viewing conditions so that members can print
to that standard. Or short of that you can attach a "conditions for proper
viewing" sheet to your prints. Some one needs to be proactive in that
situation. I gave a presentation to a local camera some time back. I was
running late and could not make it back to my studio due to traffic to get
my prints and make the  meeting on time. I was also planning on a digital
slide show. They did not have a calibrated set up. Camera clubs can talk
photography all day and night but unless they provide a good environment to
view real work, what does it really matter? 

 

If you participate in a club, it would only help every one to use a known
standard light set up. 

 

 

 

Eric Neilsen Photography

4101 Commerce Street

Suite 9

Dallas, TX 75226

http://e.neilsen.home.att.net

http://ericneilsenphotography.com

Skype ejprinter

  _____  

From: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
john794552
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 2:50 AM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Digital BW] Printing for different viewing light levels

 

On Windows XP and using CS3, I print toned monochromes on an Epson 
2400. Both monitor and printer/paper combination are calibrated. I use 
an LCD monitor, and the printer output when viewed under a bright 
white bulb corresponds well to the appearance on the monitor. However 
in lower viewing light levels as, say, a camera club venue, shadow 
details are more difficult to discern. This more of a problem with 
images that are printed more darkly, which, in my case, is quite a 
high proportion.
I have tried applying a brightening levels adjustment, but, having 
worked hard to produce subtle shadow detail, I feel this is a very 
blunt tool for solving my problem.
Have others experienced this problem? If so, how have you approached 
the problem?
Many thanks
John

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I find that my prints are usually much darker on paper than on my LCD 
screen. To get around this, I turn the brightness on the LCD way down 
after its been calibrated. The main drawback is there is a bit of a 
color/tone shift from viewing the calibrated monitor at full brightness 
(my calibration software will only work on a fairly bright screen.) 

Once I have the prints where I like them, I find they work for most 
situations--and I don't have to do two different versions. Of course, 
if its too dark, even a bright print will not look good. I'd say print 
for the light conditions you'll most likely be viewing in.  

David. 

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "john794552" 
<jwillyfontana@...> wrote:

>
> I use 
> an LCD monitor, and the printer output when viewed under a bright 
> white bulb corresponds well to the appearance on the monitor. However 
> in lower viewing light, shadow 
> details are more difficult to discern. This more of a problem with 
> images that are printed more darkly, which, in my case, is quite a 
> high proportion.

> Have others experienced this problem? If so, how have you approached 
> the problem?

Thanks for the helpful replies. Might try your idea, David, of 
turning screen brightness down.I would worry about the effects on 
the highlights of using a global, say, levels change.
Another approach I have been working on is to convert my image layer 
to a Smart Object, and applying a Shadows/Highlight filter to the 
smart object layer. This gives a non-destructive 
Shadows/Highlight 'adjustment layer' that can be modified to and fro 
until the right degree of lightening for the viewing conditions can 
be worked out. I guess if I then saved these settings as an .SHH 
file, I could apply them to all future prints on this paper.
 --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "john794552" 
<jwillyfontana@...> wrote:
>
> On Windows XP and using CS3, I print toned monochromes on an Epson 
> 2400. Both monitor and printer/paper combination are calibrated. I 
use 
> an LCD monitor, and the printer output when viewed under a bright 
> white bulb corresponds well to the appearance on the monitor. 
However 
> in lower viewing light levels as, say, a camera club venue, shadow 
> details are more difficult to discern. This more of a problem with 
> images that are printed more darkly, which, in my case, is quite a 
> high proportion.
> I have tried applying a brightening levels adjustment, but, having 
> worked hard to produce subtle shadow detail, I feel this is a very 
> blunt tool for solving my problem.
> Have others experienced this problem? If so, how have you 
approached 

> the problem?
> Many thanks
> John
>

Eric,
The idea of trying to measure light levels in the viewing scenario is 
novel and interesting. I am not sure how practical for the majority of 
camera club members it might be. Certainly would seem to be a great 
idea for visiting speakers. I remember at my recent Associate of Royal 
Photographic Society distinction attempt, that the EV viewing value 
was quoted in the information supplied.
John