Digital BW, The Print

I've been fooling around with this combo for a couple days and have a  
couple questions.
1) wondering if there is a recommended way to "cool" down the prints.  
They are a bit too warm for my likes.
2) I'm getting a lot of banding.  I've run a few head cleanings and 
nozzle checks are okay.  I've tried a couple different papers and the 
banding is still visible.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Earl

have you checked alignment?
Tyler

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "esharamaki"
<esharamaki@...> wrote:

>
> I've been fooling around with this combo for a couple days and have a  
> couple questions.
> 1) wondering if there is a recommended way to "cool" down the prints.  
> They are a bit too warm for my likes.
> 2) I'm getting a lot of banding.  I've run a few head cleanings and 
> nozzle checks are okay.  I've tried a couple different papers and the 
> banding is still visible.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks,
> Earl
>

Hi Earl,

>
> I've been fooling around with this combo for a couple days 
> and have a  couple questions.
> 1) wondering if there is a recommended way to "cool" down 
> the prints.  
> They are a bit too warm for my likes.

The paper choice is most important.  The Premier Art Smooth Bright 
White is about the most "neutra" -- starts with a negative Lab B and 
has about a 3 unit rise.

If you're using a rip, using more of the lightest inks might hold 
down the rise in Lab B a bit.  The warmth of the inks peaks in the at 
about the M (LK) density.


> 2) I'm getting a lot of banding.  

YOu should not be getting banding.  If you're using QTR, I recommend 
curves with more overlap.  With the Epson driver, use the highest 
quality setting.  On my 220 just setting the driver to Color Controls 
and gamma 2.2 made a smooth print that linearized well with QTR's 
Create ICC.

Of course, be sure the nozzles are all firing correctly.

Good luck with the combination.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

Tyler/Paul, Thanks for the responses.  Yes I did a head alignment.  I
changed the paper type to "premium semi-gloss photo paper" to access a
setting with supermicroweave, left highspeed checked and that got rid
of banding.  The prints take longer but quality is better.

I will follow Paul's tag line of "Enjoy the journey."  I have some
time today to try a few things regarding print warmth.

>...  I
> changed the paper type to "premium semi-gloss photo paper" to access a
> setting with supermicroweave, left highspeed checked and that got rid
> of banding.  The prints take longer but quality is better.

Does the dmax hold up?  Compare patches of 100% black.  I'd be curious 
if you see any visual difference.

> ... "Enjoy the journey."  

Paul

Hi Paul,
I measured with print fix pro 2.0.
Paper is Staples photo supreme double-sided matte
Paper measurement
L=94.89
a=1.82
b=-3.05
density=0.06

100% patch on heavy weight matte setting
L=15.20
a=0.74
b=0.09
Density=1.71

100% patch on premium semi-gloss photo paper setting
L=15.85
a=0.89
b=0.46
density=1.68

> 
> Does the dmax hold up?  Compare patches of 100% black.  I'd be curious 
> if you see any visual difference.
> 
> > ... "Enjoy the journey."  
> 
> Paul
>

So the dmax is off a bit with the semi-gloss setting but still very 
good.  

What is your midtone Lab B?

I assume being a Staples paper that the price is right.  Does it 
claim to be acid free?

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com  

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "esharamaki" 
<esharamaki@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Paul,
> I measured with print fix pro 2.0.
> Paper is Staples photo supreme double-sided matte
> Paper measurement
> L=94.89
> a=1.82
> b=-3.05
> density=0.06
> 
> 100% patch on heavy weight matte setting
> L=15.20
> a=0.74
> b=0.09
> Density=1.71
> 
> 100% patch on premium semi-gloss photo paper setting
> L=15.85
> a=0.89
> b=0.46
> density=1.68
> > 
> > Does the dmax hold up?  Compare patches of 100% black.  I'd be 
curious 

> > if you see any visual difference.
> > 
> > > ... "Enjoy the journey."  
> > 
> > Paul
> >
>

The Staples box doesn't say acid free...  Cheap(er) stuff I had and
thought it would do for experimenting.  I would like to try and add
some cyan in the mix to cool the mid tone and highlights down a bit,
any suggestions on where to start?

51 step wedge
Heavy weight matte setting, high speed off, best photo
26th patch
L=45.12
a=2.46
b=3.87
density=0.83

Premium semi-gloss photo paper setting, high speed on, photo RPM
26th patch
L=40.68
a=2.42
b=4.09
density=0.93

Switched out inks to the UTFSN set and currently messing about with
that...

The change in the Lab B from the paper white to midtones of about 7 
units is a rather lareg split tone that will make the image seem 
quite warm.  That change in Lab B is more than twice what the papers 
I use have (Premier Art Smooth, Moab Entrada, and Hawk Mountain 
Condor BW).  For tone control with these dilute Eboni carbon inks, 
paper selection is key.

I have not made any toners yet aimed at neutralizing the dilute Eboni 
inksets.  The UT1 toner might be close to what it needed.  It's a 
high gamut, though rather dilute, toner rather than being a 
neutralized carbon ink.

Paul  
www.PaulRoark.com  


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "esharamaki" 
<esharamaki@...> wrote:

>
> The Staples box doesn't say acid free...  Cheap(er) stuff I had and
> thought it would do for experimenting.  I would like to try and add
> some cyan in the mix to cool the mid tone and highlights down a bit,
> any suggestions on where to start?
> 
> 51 step wedge
> Heavy weight matte setting, high speed off, best photo
> 26th patch
> L=45.12
> a=2.46
> b=3.87
> density=0.83
> 
> Premium semi-gloss photo paper setting, high speed on, photo RPM
> 26th patch
> L=40.68
> a=2.42
> b=4.09
> density=0.93
> 
> Switched out inks to the UTFSN set and currently messing about with
> that...
>