Digital BW, The Print

Hello all!

I am slowly getting into 'more serious' black-and-white printing
(since I sold some prints). I outsource larger sizes, but I print most
of the work on my Epson R800. I recently began 'toning' my files with
PS adjustment layers, and now with Nik SilverEfex (which I like a good
deal).

Here's my problem. My monitor is profiled with Spyder2 Pro. I believe
the profile to be very good. Known files look correct on screen, and
most importantly, a greyscale step wedge looks neutral across the
range from white to black.

Color images print very accurately on the R800, using the latest
manufacturer's profiles. Neutral b/w images (with equal RGB values
throughout) print neutral to very, very, very slightly cool. (In wet
darkroom terms, about CC 02 at worst.) BUT the 'toned' files print too
cool, and skewed at times toward a rather nasty purplish tone in the
mids. This tone is most visible under my D50 Ottlite, but also shows
up in daylight/incandescent as well. (I guess this is 'metamerism'.) I
note that, looking at the RGB numbers in the file, the on-screen
display appears correct.

So what can I do to get a better screen-to-print match? I don't have
the budget for a spectro, and I'm a bit leery of profiling with a
scanner (but would try it). 

I am also considering converting a 1280 I own for strictly b/w work
using the MIS carts. This would undoubtedly get me consistent
reults--and clogs--but it would remove the 'toning' I am doing.

TIA,
Les

Les,

Consider getting a second R800, or R1800 and converting it to 3K (MIS) printing.  I am finding the results very rewarding.  Here is the link for it:

http://www.inksupply.com/r1800_bo.cfm

I find it very easy to profile, and produces very rich warm B&W prints on good rag paper.

The printer can also be used for printing color on matte papers at the same time.  All you give up is the ability to print on gloss types of paper.  The GO and Photo Black inks slots are used for two more matte blacks.  So there you go:  A dedicated B&W printer, and a archival color printer in one.

Ben




      

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Les, I think that you might also find happiness in the Datacolor
(replacement to the Print Fix pro) Print 3.  Making your own profiles that
allow a grayscale to printed with split tones is a good way to go. You may
be able to get a good neutral because the ink limit is working for that but
as you add a color the balanced is lost. Making your own print profiles will
help. Are you using QTR? 

 

Eric

 

Eric Neilsen Photo

4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9

Dallas, TX 75226

214 827-8301

 

http://ericneilsenphotography.com

SKype ejprinter

 

  _____  

From: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Les
Berkley
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2008 12:11 PM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Digital BW] Profile(?) Problem

 

Hello all!

I am slowly getting into 'more serious' black-and-white printing
(since I sold some prints). I outsource larger sizes, but I print most
of the work on my Epson R800. I recently began 'toning' my files with
PS adjustment layers, and now with Nik SilverEfex (which I like a good
deal).

Here's my problem. My monitor is profiled with Spyder2 Pro. I believe
the profile to be very good. Known files look correct on screen, and
most importantly, a greyscale step wedge looks neutral across the
range from white to black.

Color images print very accurately on the R800, using the latest
manufacturer's profiles. Neutral b/w images (with equal RGB values
throughout) print neutral to very, very, very slightly cool. (In wet
darkroom terms, about CC 02 at worst.) BUT the 'toned' files print too
cool, and skewed at times toward a rather nasty purplish tone in the
mids. This tone is most visible under my D50 Ottlite, but also shows
up in daylight/incandescent as well. (I guess this is 'metamerism'.) I
note that, looking at the RGB numbers in the file, the on-screen
display appears correct.

So what can I do to get a better screen-to-print match? I don't have
the budget for a spectro, and I'm a bit leery of profiling with a
scanner (but would try it). 

I am also considering converting a 1280 I own for strictly b/w work
using the MIS carts. This would undoubtedly get me consistent
reults--and clogs--but it would remove the 'toning' I am doing.

TIA,
Les

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]