Homebrew PCBs

-A Photocopier fuser unit rebuilt works well for me
thanks to ST

I use Matt inkjet paper in a laser printer

But I have found that the board has to be really clean
I use thin rubber gloves so the oil from your skin doesn't 
contaminate the
board
scrub the board with running tap water and a Green Kitchen scouring 
pad
(ScotchBrite) NO SOAP
if the board holds a film of water when in the vertical position its 
clean
enough
pat dry with a paper towel and use a hair drier to finish it off, all 
this
is done with the gloves on
KEEP YOUR FINGERS OF THE COPPER
then you have dry hands to position the paper with the art work on 
the board
ready for running through the laminator
let the board cool down, the paper should be stuck to the board

I soak the board with warm water and rub it over with a cake of hand 
soap
and the paper turns a little clear, you can see the tracks appear 
through
it, slowly rub the paper off with your thumb, there you go ready to 
etch .
you shouldn't have to touch it up but if you do use a RED Staedtler
permanent Lumocolor F pen  318-2

Have fun Cheers Craig VK2ZCM

-- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> On Fri, 02 Sep 2005 11:51:12 +0200, patroclus04 <patroclus04@y...>  
> wrote:
> 
> > I tried twice the tonner paper method, using magazine paper, and 
iron.
> > the image transfers to copper really good in some regions 
(awesome),
> > but not in others, so many tracks are cut, and cannot use the 
board yet.
> > I used and iron for 8-10 minutes or so. Then hot water for 10 
minutes,
> > and some scratching.
> > What else can I try in order to get better, and get aceptable 
results??
> > I need to make an SO and TSOP pads, so cannot do by hand.
> > By the way, one of the magazine papers I tried, had some letters
> > printed on it, and they were transfered too! is this suppose to 
happend??
> > Thank you!!!
> >
> 
> 
> use a laminatoror fuser, it produces more consistent results.
> Also you should try inkjet paper.
> 
> ST