Homebrew PCBs

Could you accept to change the subject?

At 07:35 PM 11/17/2005, you wrote:
>It usually doesn't go wrong once you figured out how to do it, but the
>same is the case with TT, i very rarely have a bad transfer.
>
>With my photoboards the resist was discolored faintly after exposure (i
>think it was yellowish but not 100% sure). After developing one could see
>it quite well, it was kind of smoky transparent.
>My main problems were exposure (getting a decent film was impossible with
>my laser printer and the papers/transparencies i had. I used this spray
>for a while that makes paper translucent, but it was not really good, it
>works great as label remover tho.)
>Also, i had some old board material that didn't develop very well.
>I'm sure i could have gotten it to work eventually, but TT seemed, and is,
>so much less work, and this way i can also make component legend and front
>panels and stuff (even my a house number sign is a PCB!).
>
>ST
>
>
>On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 16:55:36 +0100, lcdpublishing
><lcdpublishing@...> wrote:
>
> >
> > If you expose a board and the exposure doesn't work out as planed,
> >
> > it is then ruined isn't it?
> >
> >
> > For example, with toner transfer, if it turns out bad, a missing or
> >
> > pitted traces or whatever else can go wrong, I wash off the toner
> >
> > and do it again and again till it is good enough for what I need.
> >
> > The only loss I have is time and paper.
> >
> >
> > However, from an ignorant point of view ( I have never tried this
> >
> > process), if something goes wrong, the board can't be used again in
> >
> > the potoresist process can it?
> >
> >
> > Also, as I don't know what things look like along the way, can you
> >
> > see the traces with the resist on them after developing?  If so,
> >
> > what does the developed photoresist look like?
> >
> >
> > TIA
> >
> >
> > Chris
> >
>
>
>
>
>
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