Homebrew PCBs

I actually used my HP 6L and it transfered VERY well... I just lost the mask as the acid ate it up before the copper was gone...
Laminator, huh?? Hmmm....

Kim
I also found that the KODAK paper worked EXCELLENT!!! CAme off after a few minutes in the water, and left little if NO residue...

Kim.. again...

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: ecwebb1 
  To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 19, 2005 1:05 AM
  Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Xerox laminator at Staples w/ rebate, good results


  Hello everyone,  
    
  New lister here, and new at PCB creation as well.  I'm trying the TT  
  method as I was trying to get something out this weekend (well, I  
  almost succeeded ;)  
    
  Anyway, I wanted to recommend the Xerox XRX-LM1910 laminator now on  
  sale at Staples for $39 (that includes an additional $20 rebate).  I  
  was going for cheap and, if possible, no mods.  The GBC H200 is  
  discontinued and replaced by the H210, but no one has commented on  
  modifying it.  I purchased an H210 today as well ($99) but based on  
  the performance of the Xerox, I may bring the GBC back tomorrow and  
  pocket the money.  
    
  Anyway, I ran 1/16" single-sided 1oz through the Xerox using a  
  "carrier" of laser printer paper folded in half.  I used four passes  
  through the machine, temp set to max (275F) and laminator in "Foil"  
  mode.  The PCB I'm using is rather thick for this unit, but it  
  swallowed what I gave it without many complaints.  It's a little  
  tight going in the front and pops a little coming out.  In the  
  future, I'll probably try 1/32" board instead and see how that  
  goes... I'm afraid that the thicker board will eventually kill the  
  laminator (motor, rollers, or whatever).  Tonight, the boards were 
  small -- only 2"x4". 
    
  I decided to get the laminator after many inconsistent, smudgy  
  results using a plain clothes iron.  I'll also recommend Pulsar's 
  TTS sheets.. they really make the job easier.  But if you don't have 
  any, tonight I also tried using some Hammermill Color Laser Gloss 
  (Staples.. 300 sheets for $8) and got great results (though it has 
  to sit in water longer than the Pulsar stuff before it releases and 
  leaves a slight white residue that comes off with light rubbing and 
  water).  Traces look good and I think it's ready to go straight into 
  the tank.  My smallest traces are 10 mil (according to PCB), though 
  some text I printed on the board looks much smaller and came out 
  well. 
    
  I'll try to etch these test boards tomorrow.. too late to mess with  
  FeCL now..  
    
  Has anyone used a LaserJet 5P in TT process?  Linux lets me crank 
  density up to 5, but I don't know if the printer is actually using 
  it.  I could definately stand heavier density, but the results seem 
  pretty good as is.  Tomorrow I'll try an old Okidata LED printer and 
  see if it does any better.   
    
  Eric  







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