Homebrew PCBs

I actually have an inkjet already. I emailed MG Chemicals and asked 
about using inkjets instead of laser. They replied and said that 
inkjet inks aren't UV opaque and don't work well for the process. 
So, since I was already strongly considering buying another laser, I 
said what the hell and picked this one up.(I print so infrequently 
that my inkjet cartridges keep drying out on me so toner/developer 
is cheaper in the long run).

And no, I couldn't see light through the larger areas but, my 
largest areas are the power traces and pads. I did do a plain paper 
print with a large black area. Coverage was actually quite decent 
considering lasers aren't all that good at it. Way better than my 
old Epson Action II laser though.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Hans Wedemeyer <hans@c...> 
wrote:
> The problem could be due to over exposure or developer is too 
strong.
> Laser transparencies ARE perfect and I have been using them for 
MANY
> years.
> Exposure and developer strength is what counts.
> Here in Texas temperature are moderate so I have no experience of
> anything under 75F (about 24C)
> I use GE 500W light bulb at 6" from the film and expose for 70 
Seconds.
> Developing in grocery store Lye (caustic soda) with the strength I 
have
> takes about 45 second and I can do 5 mil line all day long....
> The transparency materials important and I've tried several. 3M 
CG3300
> is goo for 8-10 mil Apollo CG7060 is good for 5 mil every day.
> I have a HP LJ1100 and set it to 600dpi economy setting turned off.
> Yes I can see through the big patches, but if you are correct with
> exposure and developing it does NOT matter.
> Advice given from many years of home made PCB's...
> Inkjet printers are fine, but I think it is wrong to say Laser 
jets are
> bad, when the real issue if control of exposure and developing.
> That's my 2 cents worth....
> Hans W
> 
> 
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