Homebrew PCBs

Hi john,

That would be a good test, but it won't show me much with the crude 
tests I am doing.  It really needs to be tested on an actual 
printer.  The thickness of the ink is a critcal part in this and I 
can't apply an even film with what I have to work with. So, with an 
uneven film of ink, the results at best will be "uneven" ;-)

Chris



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, John Popelish <jpopelish@...> 
wrote:
>
> lcdpublishing wrote:
> > Well, it looks to me like someone with an epson printer that has 
> > durabrite ink has to give this a go.  
> > 
> > The ink is resisting the ferric chloride for a while.  Then, it 
> > starts to breakdown and the etchant starts to eat away at the 
> > copper.  So, it does appear to work for a while.
> > 
> > I certainly can read my name from the previous etch test.  
However, 
> > I also drew a box and some lines around my name with a sharpie.  
> > When I run my finger over the board, I can easily tell the 
> > difference in thickness of the copper.  The areas that were 
masked 
> > with the sharpie are much thicker copper than with the ink.
> > 
> > The problem with my tests is that I have no way to consistantly 
> > control the application thickness (Film thickness) of the ink.  
So, 
> > in areas where the ink is thick, it protects good - I suspect.  
This 
> > also appears to be the case where I tried another "Flood fill" 
> > area.  Some areas resisted well, others etched through like 
there 
> > was nothing there.
> > 
> > So, I really think the next step is for someone to try it on an 
ink 
> > jet printer.  that will provide consistant thickness of ink and 
of 
> > course, something accurate to see after the etching.
> > 
> > that's all I got folks.
> 
> Might you try baking the Durabrite in a warm oven or under a lamp 
for 
> a while?  It might take a while for the ink to cure into a tough 
solid.
>