Homebrew PCBs

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Philip Pemberton <philpem@...>
wrote:
>
> I think I might have come up with a quicker way to identify the
plastic based 
> papers - heat. I found this out by accident - there was a piece of
Epson photo 
> paper stuck in my soldering stand, and the soldering iron touched it
and 
> burned it. That got me wondering...
> 
> So I attacked a sheet of copier paper, and some samples of inkjet
paper with 
> my Microjet mini heat gun (which usually gets used for shrinking
heatshrink). 
> The copier paper and Staples photo paper burned, but the gloss layer
didn't 
> deform a great deal.
> 
> The Epson Premium paper, on the other hand (which seems to be resin
or plastic 
> based) burned, but the back and front bubbled quite severely before
it started 
> burning. Around the burn area, there's a lot of bubbling, very
similar to the 
> sort of bubbling you see on burning plastic.
> 
> It seems the "premium" photo papers are more likely to be
plastic-based than 
> the standard photo papers, based on my tests:
> 
> HP Premium Photo Paper, C6040A		Plastic based
> HP Photo Paper, C1847A			Wood based
> HP Coated Paper, 51634Z			Wood based
> Epson Premium, S041706			Plastic based
> Epson Durabrite, S041732		Feels plastic based
> Staples Inkjet Gloss Paper, 153458	Wood based
> 
> FYI, the HP Coated paper has the HP logo printed in the corner on
one side. 
> That's the uncoated side. The coated side should look brighter and
smoother, 
> and appears to be a clay-based coating.
> 
> Anyone care to comment? Besides the obvious stupidity of burning
paper, I 
> mean. As the saying goes, "don't try this at home"....

Okay, so what are the implications of this to the toner transfer
process?  What conclusions do you draw?   And do they apply to using a
laser printer or to using an inkjet printer?

Are any of the papers you tested any better than the glossy circulars
inserted into the weekend newspaper?