Homebrew PCBs

Oops.  It was Office Depot paper I used.  (I should have known; my
wife bought it :)

Anyway, it was SKU 652-001, Office Depot High Gloss Photo Paper, UPC
7-35854-98034-4, 69# (260 gm/m2)  It has a distinctly plastic surface
that is very shiny and a distinctly not-plastic surface that is
slightly matte.  I printed on the matte side on an HP LaserJet 5000 at
RET Max and Toner Density 5.  Ironed for 4 minutes at halfway between
Cotton and Linen, then cooled it, peeled the plastic surface away,
soaked for 5 minutes and peeled the paper away.

Donald.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Roland F. Harriston"
<rolohar@...> wrote:
>
> dhlocker:
> 
> Thanks for the comments.
> 
> I have noticed that the back side of the Office Max paper is just
slightly
> less glossy than the front side,  so, as you have experienced,
either side
> will probably work.  Next time I use  the Office Max  paper, I'll try 
> the backside.
> 
> I think the active agent here is a polished clay coat, and the
Office Max
> paper might just be polished more on one side than the other, but
both sides
> are clay coated.
> 
> The paper experts among us can correct me if I'm wrong in this
assumption.
> 
> I'm still stuck on the idea that the toner plays an important part
in this
> scheme, and that various toner compounds react differently with respect
> to how well they bond to the paper.  A really strong bond might present
> problems when removing the paper. Whereas a less strong bond will
> allow easy paper removal. It seems that I did read somewhere about the
> various compositions of laser toner compounds.
> 
> Like yourself, I have always used the litho negative/photoresist
> technology, and am pleased as Punch not to have to go through
> that rain dance anymore!  Not to mention getting rid of that
> messy ferric chloride slime.
> 
> Most of my stuff is strictly hobby or prototyping, and the
> laser jet toner technique is just fine for my applications.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Roland F. Harriston