Homebrew PCBs

Thanks for the information Tom, I will look back at the files and see if 
I can find the
liquid resist and check it out.
My UV source is from Think and Tinker,
(http://www.thinktink.com/stack/volumes/voliii/equipment/uvlamp/uvlamp.htm )
plans and have work very well for me.

Robert


twb8899 wrote:
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Robert Blumer <bob@...> wrote:
>   
>> Tom, I would like to know if what you have is positive resist or
>>     
> negative?
>   
>> I  like the positive to work with in the home because of the pcb 
>> programs and
>> Ink jet printers. ( I use 2 prints stacked to get it black enough)
>> I used KPR resist for a number of years for all my hobbies, Ham Radio 
>> and R/C Airplanes.
>> I sprayed some and dip some and found the best for me was an old 78 rpm 
>> record player
>> and I just used an eye dropper to put some on the board in the center 
>> with it spinning
>> this gave me the best results with it.
>> regards
>> Robert Blumer
>> Billings MT
>>
>>     
>
> Robert,  
>
> All dry film photo resist is negative acting. It also require less UV
> power to properly expose. I use film negatives that are photoplotted
> to expose the dry film. My reject rate is almost zero with this
> process. Photographic films will always give the best results.
>
> I posted some information about a new liquid photoresist a few weeks
> ago so maybe you should search for that information if you like the
> liquid type of resist. It's water based, easy to use and is also 
> negative acting.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
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