Homebrew PCBs

I just use a small propane torch, just don't get to
close with the flame and you can see the solder change
when it melts.
mebo




--- Mark Merclean <mamhouse@...> wrote:

> Hello all,
> 
> OK, I take up electronics as a hobby. Hit
> roadblocks, find this yahoo 
> group. Read like crazy and figure out how to make
> PCB's using the 
> laser toner method. Great advice, get process down
> to 99% success 
> rate.
> 
> Then I see a picture of a great PCB tinning job here
> - I think from 
> Derek Hawkins. So I read, order some tinning paste
> (McMaster Carr 
> #7774A11, page 3286 in online catalog), get a
> toaster oven, and 
> voila, all should be set. But can't seem to do this
> one, and need 
> advice from the experts in this group again.
> 
> I bring the oven up to ~440F degrees (according to
> Mcmaster, the 
> melting range is 426-454.) and stabilize it (as best
> a toaster oven 
> can). Bought a thermometer to put in the oven to
> check temp. Clean 
> the PCB with acetone before coating to be sure no
> junk on it. Coat 
> with ever so slightly water diluted paste, and put
> in the oven. 
> Results:
> 
> 1) I get a bunch of nice spherical silver solder
> balls sitting in a 
> field of dried out grey mud (ie, the solder paste
> without the solder 
> balls, dried out and coating the pcb)
> 
> I figure I don't have the heat high enough, but when
> I turn it up it 
> just "burns" the paste.
> 
> Can anyone offer some suggestions as to why I get
> dried out paste 
> with solder balls growing in it?
>  
> Thanks,
> M
> 
> PS - I get the smae result if I dont dilute with
> water and just use 
> right out of the jar.
> 
> 



 
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