Homebrew PCBs

Hello,

For Anodes copper, very necesary use "PHOSPHORIC COPPER"

For me, after 20 year using electrolitic copper bath, is no heating, 
to min 15° centigrade.

Attention for the surface of the anodes, anodic surface is maximum, 
but very very  maximum 1/2 the surface of the plate per faces.

Normaly, use 1.6 Amps per Dm2 of visible copper surface, not the 
print surface, but only the copper you see after insolation and 
develop dry film is so little wat you think.

Use also 40 minutes electrolitic immersion time and you obtain a good 
result, normaly, 17.5 microns déposition.

The déposition is glossy, if you obtain a mat surface, you are higt 
for the ampérage.

In first time, with a new bath, attention with the brigtner, not add 
bigger, is necessary a long time before add replenisher brigtner.

For brigtner, you add replenisher if you see the external coin are 
mat.

For a new bath, use a brush plate, just a double face plate, no dry 
film, put on the bath, and use 0.2 Amp per dm2 to 2 hours, your bath 
is started, all the impurity is go, and important, your anodes is 
flashed, normaly hi come black.

After 2 our, your plate is very glossy.

Also important, put your anodes in a polypropilene sac, al the 
impurity go not in bath.

Very important, if you d'ont use the bath for a long time, put out 
the anode, and look for the watter évaporation, adjust only with 
deminéralised watter, only, no chemestery.

For anode, you can obtain to "AMPERE" in France, very nice matérial, 
also for tin or tin-lead anode.

For electrolityc bath, normaly is also a pump and a filter to make 
recirculation.

Is also very important you have pressure air with a ramp in the 
bottom off the tank with small drilling holle, the air go to the top 
off the bath, just a little pressure

Put this ramp just at the bottom of the plate.

Good ammusement, best regards, and d'ont hésitate to ask me.

Pleasure

Patrick Belgium Europe



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Markus Zingg <homebrew-pcb@...> 
wrote:
>
> Hi Suske,
> 
> I obviousely don't care too much from where you get the chemistry 
as 
> long as it hopefully works out well for you :-). In other words, I 
> apreciate the service Bungard is providing and as such wish them a 
> looong life. Apart from this I'm not related to them in any ways. :-
)
> 
> For the heaters, I use just dirt cheap regular aquarim heaters. The 
only 
> thing to watch out here is that they usually don't go up to the 
> temperature you need. However, they are (usually, check with what's 
> available at your place) built using bimetal switches to switch the 
> power on and off. The ones I found here (really the very cheapest 
ones, 
> I use 100W heaters) have inside a little plastic part that sits on 
a 
> fine threaded screw which is what you turn from outside to set the 
> temperature. That plastic part is having a nose to limit 
the "hottest" 
> end position. By simply cutting of that nose you can modify the 
heaters 
> so as they go up to the requiered 75 degree celsius. There is 
usually no 
> problem or security issue involved here apart from the obivous 
safety 
> handling of such heaters. The heaters are made for such 
temperatures. 
> Those for the aquarium are just limitted so as the average aquarium 
user 
> does not end up unintentionally boiling the fishes.... :-) Just 
make 
> sure you never turn the heaters on if they are not COMPLETELY 
flodded in 
> the fluid or else the surrounding glass will instantly break.
> 
> As far as the anodes go I think the phosphor is important to get 
good 
> results. I bougth my material from a source here in Switzerland 
> (Haeuselmann Metalle) which is carrying different alloys of copper. 
One 
> of them is having a small percentage of phosphor in it. So you may 
shop 
> around a little up until you find such a source. If you have found 
an 
> alternative source for the chemistry - why not ask them for a 
pointer to 
> annodes? Professionals use copper nuggets in titanium containers 
which 
> are then flodded in the copper solution and at least those must be 
> available near you if there are also board houses since this is 
what 
> they use. As a last straw, you could use such nuggets, melt them 
and 
> found anodes this way. I of course also could buy you the raw 
material 
> here at the 1:1 costs of what I pay. However, shipping the ~2KG of 
> material might be a bit costly but feel free to get back to me if 
that's 
> what you want.
> 
> HTH
> 
> Markus
> 
> _bojan_ schrieb:
> >
> > Hi Markus,
> >
> > Thanks a lot for your writing.
> >
> > Another detail ar fluid heating. Bungard use PTFE plated large 
area
> > heaters. What did you use for fluids heating in tanks?
> >
> > What about anodes, can I use some copper plate or I must use that
> > sulphurised copper.
> >
> > B.T.W. I am on the way to get my chemicals but not from 
Bungard. ;)
> >
> > Best regards,
> >
> > Suske
> >
> >
>