Homebrew PCBs

Richad H.

I agree with most of your observations. Perhaps using a laminator
precludes the need to preheat the copper clad. I use a household iron,
and find that preheating does contribute to success.

Years ago, when I used Kodak KPR liquid resist, I learned that
absolute cleanliness of the copper surface was the secret to
getting a good resist coating using the "dip" method with the old
Kepro dip tank.

Cleanliness seems to be the key.

If I could justify the cost of a laminator and the time
to modify it, I'd certainly get one.
But I do no more than eight or ten boards a year.

I agree with your opinion regarding glossy paper. I have tried
most of brands mentioned, and also find that the Hammermill
paper is good and cheap. My last paper purchase was Hammermill
"Office One" Business Gloss, 16302-0, 32 pound.

Soaking in slightly warm water that contains a few drops
of dish soap works fine. I just let the board soak until
the paper lifts off. A bit of finger rubbing removes
stubborn spots.

Roland F. Harriston, PD
******************


RICHARD HEILIGER wrote:

> The majority of problems I have encountered with parts of traces not 
> adhering are from oils or corrosion on the board, seldom a heat 
> problem. Solutions - wash your hands before handling the board, (then 
> don't pick your nose, or clean your ears ;), lightly sand board with 
> 600 grit paper, do a double cleaning of board with alcohol. Alcohol 
> works as well as acetone, and aint nearly as dangerous.
>
>
>
>  





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