Homebrew PCBs

I was using pretty much the same procedure (before Toner Dusting that is)
Look for a laminator that has an adjustable temp setting. There is a Xerox
branded one that is pretty cheap."Foil" gives the best results with multiple
passes.

Remember to clean the pcb well and rinse in a solvent first, to remove all
of the oils.

A little automatoic dishwasher detergent in the soak bath helps, The
surfactants help wet out the paper and the alkali helps separate the fibers.

Myc
On Thu, Nov 6, 2008 at 9:05 PM, phildimond
<my-yahoo-groups@...>wrote:

>   I spent ages (years) trying to get TT working. I'm sure lots of people
> have found that irons, etc do the job, but after about 5 years of
> frustration, another member here gave me a sure-fire method...
>
> After using it very successfully now (100% success), I found that the
> secrets (at least for me) were:
>
> 1. Use a laminator. I was probably way too impatient with the iron, or
> used the wrong heat, or whatever. I was pointed to a GBC Creative
> laminator, super cheap and needed no modifications. I run it through
> (on a slight angle, not square to the feed rollers) ten times, artwork
> attached to the PCB with real 3M Scotch Magic tape, which seems to
> survive the heat well and leave little or no residue if removed carefully.
>
> 2. Cheap, super glossy magazine paper. I tried a few papers, and from
> what I can see, you want a glossy paper, but one of low quality. You
> actually want it to fall apart when you soak it. We call it "toner
> transfer", but in my limited experience what happens is that the toner
> sticks to the board, and the thin layer of paper that the toner is
> attached to stays on the toner. The soaking process is about
> separating that thin layer from the rest of the sheet. When I'm done,
> my dry traces look grey, not black, because the top surface is a
> micro-thin layer of paper still attached to the toner.
>
> I use super-glossy cheap magazine pages (the inner pages, not the covers)
>
> Phil
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "Roland F. Harriston"
>
> <rolohar@...> wrote:
> >
> > Richad H.
> >
> > I agree with most of your observations. Perhaps using a laminator
> > precludes the need to preheat the copper clad. I use a household iron,
> > and find that preheating does contribute to success.
> >
> > Years ago, when I used Kodak KPR liquid resist, I learned that
> > absolute cleanliness of the copper surface was the secret to
> > getting a good resist coating using the "dip" method with the old
> > Kepro dip tank.
> >
> > Cleanliness seems to be the key.
> >
> > If I could justify the cost of a laminator and the time
> > to modify it, I'd certainly get one.
> > But I do no more than eight or ten boards a year.
> >
> > I agree with your opinion regarding glossy paper. I have tried
> > most of brands mentioned, and also find that the Hammermill
> > paper is good and cheap. My last paper purchase was Hammermill
> > "Office One" Business Gloss, 16302-0, 32 pound.
> >
> > Soaking in slightly warm water that contains a few drops
> > of dish soap works fine. I just let the board soak until
> > the paper lifts off. A bit of finger rubbing removes
> > stubborn spots.
> >
> > Roland F. Harriston, PD
> > ******************
> >
>
>  
>


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