Homebrew PCBs

Sorry for the late response (travelling). My laminator is a 1712741
but I'll bet the differences are regional (possibly just the
compliance label!). No mods of any kind. And yes, I use standard 1.6mm
FR4 SS % DS plated boards (that's about your 1/16").. The trick is to
feed the board on a slight angle (like 15 degrees) so it grabs one
corner first - if you present the rollers with a whole edge at once it
will jam. 

I got all this from the list - they're not my ideas at all. And it
works great!

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Roland F. Harriston"
<rolohar@...> wrote:
>
> Phil
> Would the laminator you mentioned be the GBC Creative "Blue"
> *Part Number:* 1712730R 	 
> 
> 
> This is a very inexpensive machine, to say the least.
> And you say that you did no modifications?
> I generally use 1/16",  2 oz copper clad, two sided.
> Will it work with material this thick?
> 
> Thanks for the information.
> 
> Roland F. Harriston, PD
> *********************
> 
> phildimond wrote:
> 
> > I spent ages (years) trying to get TT working. I'm sure lots of people
> > have found that irons, etc do the job, but after about 5 years of
> > frustration, another member here gave me a sure-fire method...
> >
> > After using it very successfully now (100% success), I found that the
> > secrets (at least for me) were:
> >
> > 1. Use a laminator. I was probably way too impatient with the iron, or
> > used the wrong heat, or whatever. I was pointed to a GBC Creative
> > laminator, super cheap and needed no modifications. I run it through
> > (on a slight angle, not square to the feed rollers) ten times, artwork
> > attached to the PCB with real 3M Scotch Magic tape, which seems to
> > survive the heat well and leave little or no residue if removed
carefully.
> >
> >
> >
> >  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>