Homebrew PCBs

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "James Bishop" <bishopaj@...> 
wrote:
>
> I've never tried the paper you are using, but I was under the
> impression that the *Inkjet* glossy is preferable to the laser 
glossy,
> because the laser paper is obviously made to hold onto the laser
> toner.

*** Sort of makes sense.

> 
> I get good results and none of the problems that you mention using
> paper from a magazine,

*** I tried the glossy front page of a Ram Welding catalog.  The 
toner transferred well, but so did Ram Welding's print.  Apparently 
they'd printed their catalog on a laser printer :).

> 
> I also remember reading something about a brother printer that was
> unsuitable because the melting point of the toner was too high...

*** Now THAT's interesting.  I remember looking for magnetic toner 
for printing checks, and the check toner store telling me that 
Brother printers would not do at all.  Same problem?  I do have a 
Laserjet 1020 ( that I use to print checks ).  And I also have the 
original unused toner cartridge.  Might try that out.

   I have a board soaking right now.  This time, I sanded it with 600 
grit, cleaned it off with lacquer thinner and paper towels, then with 
denatured alcohol and cotton balls. We'll see how it turns out.

   I am absolutely fascinated by the process of board design.  It's 
just amazing to me that one can now download software to actually do 
this for FREE of the Internet.  My wife is annoyed by how much time 
I'm spending in front of the computer drawing pretty pictures.

    If I get the single sided process down pat, I am eager to proceed 
to double-sided.  I just designed a PIC24F CPU card, and was unable 
to do any sort of reasonable routing single-sided.

                              - Jerry Kaidor