Homebrew PCBs

Stained glass copper foil adhesive will not stand up to solder
temperatures on a flat surface. I tried using it to repair a pc board
edge connector - the adhesive failed before I could solder a 22 gauge
wire to it.On stained glass it is crimped around the edges of the
glass - which holds it in place while the adhesive re-solidifies.


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Tony Smith" <ajsmith@...> wrote:
>
> > >Anyone worked with copper foils? Got any sources for getting hold of
> some?
> > 
> > you can get it at various handicraft stores like, Hobby Lobby, and
> > such . sometimes in the leaded glass section. they also usually have
> > in it in adhesive tape of various widths. intriguing notion, but
> > can't see worth the effort except as personal cool self expression
> > and enrichment. to drill glass, you must continually spray with water
> 
> 
> Foil typically comes in 10 metre (33') rolls, with widths from about
4mm -
> 10mm.  The sizes are related to the thicknesses of glass, the copper is
> stuck to the edge for the glass and folded over, like [.  Most glass
is 3mm
> thick.  
> 
> Note that the foil comes with different colour backing, that is the
adhesive
> side may not be copper.  You can get copper (i.e. plain), silver &
black.
> When doing stained glass the different colours provide different
effects,
> you can see this side thru the glass.
> 
> The adhesive will stand up to soldering for a short period, but it
will lift
> if overheated.  This is bare copper, so you'll need to clean & flux it
> before soldering.  Normal rosin core solder will work fine (I'd
still scrub
> it first) but the flux can be hard to get off.  You're not likely to
crack
> the glass, 100 watt & over irons are normally used.  Don't use a
torch, you
> will crack it then.
> 
> I wouldn't use SMT components, I'd simply use normal thru-hole
components
> and push the leads down, for chips bend the leads out.  This solves the
> problem of drilling.  If you want to drill, drill first them apply
the tape.
> 
> Since chips pins are on a 2.54mm (1/10") pitch, the tape is too
thick to use
> as is.  The thinnest glass is 2mm (for picture frames), and tape to
match is
> about 4mm wide.  There is thinner stuff, but it's hard to find.   You'll
> have to lay out the tracks to allow for the thick tape, and then
trim the
> ends to meet up with the chip, angling it in to line up properly.
> 
> Otherwise you can cut it to size yourself, much like how a vinyl cutter
> (drag knife) works.  Set up the tape to run thru a roller guide, and
> position a blade so it cuts the tape, but not the backing.  Of course,
> easier said than done.  :)
> 
> Tony
>