Homebrew PCBs

>I've mentioned this before - I get quite good results (down to 10/10 mils)
>with an old LaserJet IIIp and cheap tracing paper. Looking at the output
>with a powerful magnifier it's not bad - the edges are quite sharp but there
>are lots of small blank regions. For the record, it's got a standard HP
>cartridge and the density is set to maximum. It's better with LaserStar film
>but the stuff is a lot more expensive than tracing paper.

I also get good results with the laser/tracing paper combo BUT, it
also depends on the method used and that's IMHO the reason why so many
people post even conflicting experience. The laser/tracing paper works
ok here (if not to say very good) for standard photo sensitive coated
base material. Since I started to use my through hole plating station,
I can't do it this way anymore and have to use a photoresist laminate
instead. This laminate is MAGNITUDES more ligh sensitive. I.e. the
exposure time is only 15 seconds (90 seconds with the tracing
paper/lasser combo) and with this laminate it's no longer possible for
me to use the laser. I tried with different kind of papers and foils
to no avail. Same story also with the HP DeskJet 950Csi I happened to
have also. A friend then told me to try an Epson Stylus C62. I first
did not wanted to belive it, but now that I have one I must say that
the results are stunning. I use the Avery (Zweckform) 2502 foils with
it and as others pointed out the foil used also makes a huge
difference.

Markus