DJ Delorie wrote: > I've found that ink blocks UV better than toner (8 steps vs 3 for > toner). I've heard that "photo" inks have an extra UV inhibitor in > them, but I haven't tried mine to see if they work better than black. > Inkjet is the way to go. What do you mean by "steps"? > I have a special target footprint I use on my boards - four square > pads with a 1 mil gap between them. Since I use negative prints, this > results in a big sqare hole in the ink with a thin crosshair in it. I > pre-drill registration holes in the pcb, and line up both sides' films > using the targets. I've pretty much decided on Microtrak after spending most of the evening digging through MSDSes and datasheets. That's a positive-acting resist (i.e. on the transparency, black = copper, clear = blank FR4) which is developed in metasilicate. I did get a reply from Mega, basically the difference is mainly down to Microtrak being an "inherited" product. Fotoboard is roller-coated, Microtrak is dip-coated. Other than that, the FR4 laminate is basically identical. The shelf life is a guaranteed minimum, not an absolute, so theoretically pre-coated MT should last a while, but will get harder to expose and develop as it ages. This should be a fun week. :) -- Phil. ygroups@... http://www.philpem.me.uk/
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Getting started with photoresist (UV) etching
2009-05-13 by Philip Pemberton
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