Homebrew PCBs

One way to get around the "popping" issue is to slightly bevel the edge of
the pcb and feed the pcb into the laminator at an angle.
Works for me.

Of course , you can always buy slightly thinner pcb material on eBay. I
found the 0.040" is still rigid enough.

Myc

On Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 11:56 AM, Steve <steve65@...> wrote:

>
>
> Thanks Ken and DJ for clearing that up for me. Most of what I do is with
> 0.062 material, so it sounds like I need to consider other models of
> laminators.
>
> Steve K8JQ
>
>
> sailingto wrote:
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>,
> DJ Delorie <dj@...> wrote:
> >
> >> Steve <steve65@...> writes:
> >>
> >>> In reviewing recent postings, I did not find an answer to this
> question:
> >>> Can this laminator be used for .062in board? Any problems with doing
> so?
> >>>
> >> The one I have, basically, no. The rollers in the non-heatseal one
> >> are NOT spring loaded and have trouble with 0.062 boards.
> >>
> >>
> >
> > DJ, you are correct - the spring on the motor side of my laminator does
> NOT allow the roller to open up. I just pulled the cover off to check - .062
> board does go thru ok, there is a "pop" as the PCB exits the rollers. I
> suspect the rollers are flexing to allow the thick PCB to go thru.
> >
> > The spring seems to hold the motor drive engaged with the roller gears -
> if the level at rear is pressed, the motor moves away from roller gears and
> the rollers stop. I was thinking I had read the instructions and it said
> pressing the level allowed the rollers to open.
> >
> > Sorry about the bad info on rollers being spring loaded. I just ran a
> small 2"X2" .062 (I just checked with mic) boards thru the rollers just now
> - seem to roll ok, but with the pop as the board exits. I think the rollers
> would be damaged with extended use.
> >
> > 73 de Ken H> K9FV
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
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>  
>


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