Homebrew PCBs

On Tue, 2009-06-23 at 11:23 +0000, aurangzebhaque wrote:
> I have never had the problem of opacity in the printout, and edges
> etc. have always been satisfactorily sharp. We use the sunlight here
> because it is abundant and free ;-), and the rays are parallel. Maybe
> you should try it too. Hopefully it will save you money on film.

Me, i just use toner transfer, because is simpler, i wish to use direct
print for layout and soldermask if possible, but i still didn't even
finish the cnc :|

The page author really uses more prints glued for better opacity.
Professional transparencies are like old photo cameras negatives. Burned
with laser, and revealed and fixed and let dry.

Using emulsion as resist instead of the dry film I think will archive a
more successful rate with plated holes. The dry film can lift on small
ring holes, filling the hole can be a solution. So I look for it, only
know that link reporting success with the method. 

If you have the benzenophenone, and are willing to try this. I think we
all appreciate reports with soldermask also. Maybe only part A (resin)
epoxy glue. And i am curious about the acrylic resin mixture (never heat
it!).

I hope the automatic translation worked. The important part is:
For 3ml emulsion use 5 drops of sensiblizer. For 3 ml PVA glue use 2
drops, either both will do 15cm x 15cm board area minimum.
Where emulsion is the one from the silkscreen store.
And he refers to never use running water, just wetting the thing
carefully with water.

PS: My bad english and the automatic correction dependency, leaved the
word 'i' instead of 'he' in the previous email, for which i am sorry.
(among hood instead of wood)