Homebrew PCBs

TO clarify,  using the dry film type stuff, I would get blisters - sometimes.  Nothing consistant about it from what I could determine.  I could easily manipulate the dry film onto the board without bubbles (small boards) but after running through the laminator, blisters would appear and those never turned out good.

Other times I would have a simple break in a trace as if there was a cut line in the resist material (toner or dry film).  

Toner works great sometimes and others it simply will not stick to the PCB.  I have been usint the same: printer, toner, PCB material, paper, iron settings, cleaning process, etc. for over a year now.  Sometimes it works great. somedays like the past few, nothing seems to work.

I ran over to Fry's electronics this morning and picked up some positive resist coated material.  My first board failed in that I didn't expose long enough but otherwise the board looked great after etching (except where the resist didn't come off).  I am currently exposing my second board and will know within a half hour or so if this one works out.  So far it is actually a faster process than any of the others.  I know that it comes at a cost (more expensive stock) but if it removes the problems it will save sanity. In some cases, it will actually be cheaper too if I am not trying and failing time after time wasting PCB stock, transparancy films, etchant, etc.

Hopefully this will work out and I can move on.

BTW, on my best day, I have never had a board look as good as yours.

Chris