Thanks for describing your process. If I try the dry film again, I will give that a try. The pre-coated board sure worked good. My exposure time ended up being 11 minutes per side with a dual bulb, 18 watt flourescent light. The results were very good. I will have to do some experimenting with different light sources to see if I can speed up the exposure time but overall I am really happy with the results I got so far. I just hope it wasn't beginners luck. Chris --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, DJ Delorie <dj@...> wrote: > > > "lcdpublishing" <lcdpublishing@...> writes: > > TO clarify, using the dry film type stuff, I would get blisters - > > If you lay the film flat on the pcb and run it through the laminator, > you're going to get blisters. You've got to either get the air out > ahead of time (Adam's wet method) or keep the film OFF the pcb until > the laminator presses it down (my method). > > Details of my method: > > I flip the PCB over and lay the film next to it, with a 1/2 inch > overlap, and press the overlap part down. Now I flip the PCB over and > fold the film along the attached edge. Feed the attached edge into > the laminator and IMMEDIATELY grab the other two corners of the film > and peel it off the PCB. Pull gently away from the laminator, and > apart, to keep the film smooth, and pull up some to keep it off the > pcb. You want the film's first contact with the PCB to be at the > laminator's roller, so that no air bubbles are trapped. >
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Re: Need better reliability than I am getting with toner transfer - what's next?
2009-08-05 by lcdpublishing
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