Yahoo Groups archive

Homebrew PCBs

Index last updated: 2026-04-28 23:05 UTC

Message

Re: Need better reliability than I am getting with toner transfer - what's next?

2009-08-05 by lcdpublishing

Thanks for describing your process. If I try the dry film again, I will give that a try.

The pre-coated board sure worked good.  My exposure time ended up being 11 minutes per side with a dual bulb, 18 watt flourescent light.  The results were very good. I will have to do some experimenting with different light sources to see if I can speed up the exposure time but overall I am really happy with the results I got so far.  I just hope it wasn't beginners luck.

Chris




--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, DJ Delorie <dj@...> wrote:
>
> 
> "lcdpublishing" <lcdpublishing@...> writes:
> > TO clarify, using the dry film type stuff, I would get blisters -
> 
> If you lay the film flat on the pcb and run it through the laminator,
> you're going to get blisters.  You've got to either get the air out
> ahead of time (Adam's wet method) or keep the film OFF the pcb until
> the laminator presses it down (my method).
> 
> Details of my method:
> 
> I flip the PCB over and lay the film next to it, with a 1/2 inch
> overlap, and press the overlap part down.  Now I flip the PCB over and
> fold the film along the attached edge.  Feed the attached edge into
> the laminator and IMMEDIATELY grab the other two corners of the film
> and peel it off the PCB.  Pull gently away from the laminator, and
> apart, to keep the film smooth, and pull up some to keep it off the
> pcb.  You want the film's first contact with the PCB to be at the
> laminator's roller, so that no air bubbles are trapped.
>

Attachments

Move to quarantaine

This moves the raw source file on disk only. The archive index is not changed automatically, so you still need to run a manual refresh afterward.