Thanks. That's really helpful. I have dry film, but I've never got good results. Regards, Marko Simao Cardoso pravi: > > > Marko Pavlin wrote: > > I retrofited famous "Peach" to Peach Vario with variable distance > > between rollers. I made new side walls and improved gears with > > additional holders. > > Very ingenious and simple your spring load system! Thanks for sharing. > > You said it's only for toner transfer use, but since you are doing it, > almost from scratch, with a few extra tricks you can make it as good for > dry film as the real expensive ones. The hot rubber rolls seem to > already have a diameter large enough. But for dry film the rolls should > run free. Without motor attached. The motor is attached to a second pair > of normal rubber rolls. > > The dry film is viscous not solid, if traction is applied with the > pressure and temperature, the dry film can wrinkle. Mega and other > vendors sell GBC laminators modified only to hold the big dry film > rolls. And those laminators are known for wrinkle the dry film in a > stressful way. Bungard sells a super expensive laminator from a glass > etching vendor which has the hot rubber rolls running free. > > The hot rolls shouldn't drive the movement, they should be driven by the > dry film movement. The hot rubber rolls should only apply pressure and > temperature. The second pair of normal rubber rolls drives them all, > moving pcb with dry film already applied. The 3rd thing is the dry film > roll stands, which as a 'brake' thing, needing some force necessary to > pull dry film, making dry film always stretched in the hot rubber rolls. > The brake system is made by a multiplying transmission between dry film > roll and the roll that remove the undercover sheet. Since can't exist > different speeds for each roll, it can't run, but the transmission has a > clutch which let it run after a minimum force used (Except the simple > implementation works so bad, but they seem to changed the design in > newer models). > > Since no homebrew need big dry film rolls. It can be made by Adam > Seychell good way. Having two plastic plates (upper and lower) at 45� > with pcb movement, in which a piece of dry film is hold by water surface > tension, nicely stretched. If a loose end of dry film is left in the hot > roll front, when the user push a pcb through it should grab the dry film > too, hopefully aligned. > > Hope to have helped anyone interested. >
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Peach Vario
2010-02-01 by Marko Pavlin
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