Piers, I am using plain old rosin-core solder from Radio Shack -- nothing fancy. I'm using a small "flux brush" to brush on the flux and to brush the solder around -- I picked up a package of 20 or so on sale cheap at Harbor Freight. At the end I am also wiping it with some paper towel. My technique is still developing, but on this board, I put the bare board on the hot plate; I brushed flux on the whole board (I have a pint container full of rosin flux that I picked up from a yard sale); I cut some snips of solder and scattered them on the board. When they start melting, I brush the molten solder over every bit of copper. Undoubtedly the liquid tin stuff would be a whole lot faster and easier, but this does seem to work for me for the moment. Hopefully you will improve on my technique and let me know how! :) Andy --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Piers Goodhew <piers@...> wrote: > > What sort of solder are we talking? Paste, "normal" resin-core wire, or somethig else? > > What are you brushing it (excess solder) off with? I have never satisfactorily tinned a whole board yet. > > PG > > On 07/02/2010, at 6:33 AM, awakephd wrote: > > > Some followup -- > > > > I made a board last night, and etched, drilled, and tinned it this morning. The process was the same as described below, except I managed to regulate the temperature on the hot plate much better. Here is the new board: > > > > http://home.earthlink.net/~a_wake/tt_test_board2.jpg > > > > and here it is in comparison to the over-cooked board from yesterday: >
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Re: TT results - HP 2015, HP Laser Glossy paper, GBC 2130, HCl + H2O2, hotplate
2010-02-07 by awakephd
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