Homebrew PCBs

I first read about the process with the glossy photo paper method, which
seemed to be much more prevalent on a number of sites.  It wasn't until I
dug though a lot of other tutorials that I ever saw the magazine paper
method come up.

Most of the information I've seen seems to take the "I've always done it
this way" stance, so it's difficult to get a good feel for which method is
preferred.

I wasn't trying to claim that anybody's process was bad - I just wanted to
get a better feel for what I was doing wrong.

-Andrew

On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 10:41 AM, cary heestand <c.hhestand@...> wrote:

>
>
> This seems to be a big problem on most sites.  A group of people come up
> with a way that works, and others post saying, " Your process doesn't work,
> I used a different paper than you did,and a different board prep method but
> I did it just like you said, and it doesn't work"
>
> It seems that most people that use magazine paper, scotchbrite and alcohol
> have good results.
>
>  Is it because the magazine paper is "free" that people think it won't
> work?  I guess it comes down to free and expensive expensive wins.  Even if
> it isn't as good!
>
> cary
>
>
> --- On Sun, 4/18/10, Kerry Wentworth <kwentworth@...<kwentworth%40skunkworksnh.com>>
> wrote:
>
> From: Kerry Wentworth <kwentworth@...<kwentworth%40skunkworksnh.com>
> >
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner transfer problems
>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Sunday, April 18, 2010, 7:37 PM
>
>
>
>
> A couple of ideas.
>
> 1) Try magazine paper
>
> 2) Use 00 steel wool or scotchbrite to scrub the board, not 150 sandpaper.
>
> I use a laminator now, but when I ironed, it was 4 to 5 minutes, not 2.
>
> Let us know how it works out for you.
>
> Kerry
>
> andrewmv@ymail. com wrote:
> > I've just started attempting my first PCBs with the toner transfer
> method, and I'm consistently getting terrible results.
> >
> > Some sections of the pattern transfer flawlessly to the board, while
> others stay on the paper. I've tried varying heat, pressure, and ironing
> time, but my results are always similar.
> >
> > It never seems to be the same parts of the pattern that come though, but
> I never get the whole thing.
> >
> > My current process is:
> >
> > 1) Print the patterns in black toner on medium-gloss photo paper with a
> Dell 5310n laser printer at my office.
> > 2) Scour the board blank in two orthogonal directions with 150 grit
> sandpaper
> > 3) Clean the board blank with pure acetone
> > 4) Preheat the board to about 150 degrees Fahrenheit with an electric
> clothes iron. I'm measuring with a handheld infrared HVAC thermometer.
> > 5) With the iron at about 400 degrees, I place the pattern toner-side
> down on the board, and apply pressure with the iron. The pattern almost
> immediately fuses to the copper, as I've seen suggested it should, and I
> move the iron around the pattern regularly, applying a least two full
> minutes of heat and pressure to every part of the board.
> > 6) I immediately place the board and paper into a bowl of hot water, and
> let it soak for 10-20 minutes.
> >
> > I've tried variations on this...I initially skipped the scouring,
> cleaning, or preheating the board. I've tried using mild pressure all the
> way up to my full body weight. None of these significantly improved or
> worsened results.
> >
> > I tried letting the board fully cool before placing it into COLD water,
> as I've seen suggested, and found that there was virtually no toner transfer
> whatsoever.
> >
> > Any tips or ideas?
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  
>


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