Homebrew PCBs

Like many, when I first heard this suggested, my thought was "that would be some trick!"

But then I kept seeing references to it being done.

At this point I think the biggest problem would be getting the board lined up for the second side. When I use my HP for TT I sometimes get 1/4" misalignment. Which doesn't matter for TT.

I just 'et up' the rollers on my SPL 125 laminator because of the higher heat (220C) I run it at. I bought replacements parts, but I figure I should look at alternatives. (I routinely turn out boards with 8 mil traces. I can do thinner, but start to get adhesion issues at about 6 mil) 

I even considered building a Reprap to print etch resist on the boards. Resolution kind of course, though.

Wonder if you could run 1 sided 1/32" boards through the laser printer, then glue them together...

Or thinner, then make 4 layer boards... :-)

Then we need to figure out how to plate the bleeping vias...

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Mark Lerman <mlerman@...> wrote:
>
> 
> A subject dear to my heart!
> 
> I have spent the last six months experimenting with direct laser 
> printing of PCBs, and I am now able to (fairly) reliably produce 
> boards using this method. If anyone is interested I can share a LOT 
> of details, but the Brother is NOT the way to go. I spent a month or 
> so working with the HL-2170, as well as a few other false starts 
> before settling on the Lexmark E260 as the printer of choice. The 
> "straightness" of the path is relative, and all of the laser printers 
> have to be modified to pass pcbs, although you can run the thin, 
> somewhat flexible (eg 8 mil) boards through some of them. You cannot 
> use the internal fuser.
> 
> When I described some of my earlier efforts at direct laser pcb, 
> there was some concern that the drum is too easily damaged. In the 
> past months I have made several hundred "runs" through my modified 
> printer, many of which were experimental, without proper smoothing 
> and protecting of edges, and I am still using the same drum. I am 
> still not sure of the limits of the process, but I have produced 5 
> mil traces without problems.
> 
> The steps are:
> 1 - Produce the artwork - I use Eagle.
> 2 - Print the pcb.
> 3 - Place board in oven to "fuse".
> 4 - Etch.
> 
> One real advantage of direct laser pcb is that you can see the 
> results instantly, and if the "image" is not perfect, you can just 
> brush the toner off, wipe the board with acetone, and do another run!
> 
> I was waiting till I had the process perfected before "publishing" on 
> this forum, but if anyone is interested, I can provide details. You will need:
> 
> 1 - A Laser Printer - I strongly recommend the Lexmark E260, on sale 
> at Staples for $169 (?) with an additional $50 off if you bring in 
> any dead printer for "recycling".
> 2 - A high voltage power supply to provide a variable Transfer 
> Voltage. A 3KV (variable) at 100 microamps will do - Ebay is your friend.
> 3 - A high voltage relay to switch between the internal transfer 
> voltage and the external supply is useful but not strictly necessary.
> 4 - A simple microprocessor board to spoof the sensors that need to 
> be emulated and control the printer solenoids and such.
> 
> Mark
>