Homebrew PCBs

I've been wondering about this oven method too. Lapping a slab of steel sounds like a chore though. I've lapped heatsinks before and that wasn't fun.

Yesterday there was a post here:

http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/25632

That describes a cheap silicone baking mat that may be useful between the steel plate and the board. Heat transfer may be improved so no need for lapping(?):

http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/25632

The link to the mat is:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009A9WU/?tag=thecelpho-20

Regards, David WB4ONA

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Jim <jhutch17@...> wrote:
>
> Steve: Look at message 
> http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/22175
>  I used a preheated block of steel and a clamp  ... I have had 
> consistent results and rarely a failure ...
> the failure is usually poor cleaning or a finger print. The 
> thermo-couple used plugs into my DVM
> The steel block was a "cut-off" and I used some fine grit sand-paper to 
> lap the steel
> My method is not the same as yours but it shows you are on the right track
> I just bought an Lexmark E260D printer and will try the DLP(Direct Laser 
> Printing) method ... as soon as Mark gives out the needed modifications ...
> Jim KI6MZ
> 
> Steve Maroney wrote:
> > Hey Guys, I just attempted the Toner Transfer method by using my kitchen
> > oven.  I preheated the oven and PCB to 300 degrees. It didn't work out
> > very well due to lack of the right amount and an even amount of pressure
> > across the board.  This method could potentially work very  well if I
> > had a suitable solid weight to put on top.  
> >
> >  
> >
> > Anyone ever try this ?  Or If anyone attempts it, please post the
> > results. 
> >
> >  
> >
> >  
> >
> >  
> >
> > Best Regards,
> >
> > Steve Maroney
> >
> >  
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