Homebrew PCBs

The solder paste technique might work, especially with some types of
lead-free solder. Leaded solder has very high surface tension which
makes it not stick to non-metals, but some types of unleaded solder
sticks to non-metals.

But, someone figured out a way to use inexpensive conductive glue to
get "plated" through holes. Check this out:
http://www.pulsarprofx.com/pcbfx/main_site/pages/tech_support/plated_thru_holes/plated-thru_holes.html

PulsarProFX also sells some toner transfer paper and 1/32 inch thick
copper clad board, which looks very good for one-off prototype boards.

Another recent thread gives some clues about how to drill small holes
easily and accurately without too much expense.

I've been lurking for years and not been building my own boards
because of the perceived hassles and start-up expenses of doing
reasonably dense double-sided boards, but these recent developments
have got me very excited. I'm tempted to give it a try!

Cheers,
- Jan


On Fri, Dec 24, 2010 at 8:48 AM, davesage12@...
<davesage12@...m> wrote:
> I haven't tried this but.. I recently had some experience with the solder paste used for surface mount chips. I'd never used it before but I noticed some very useful actions it has.
>  I was wondering if the paste was injected (using the syrings it comes in) into holes where you want a connection top and bottom making sure a bit gets onto the copper rings on top and bottom of the board if, when heated - perhaps with a heat gun so that the paste will not be attracted by a soldering iron - if the solder paste might melt in place, connect the top and bottom, and stay in place by capillary action while molten until it cools.
>
>  I've always just soldered small wires into the vias or made sure that legs requiring through connection are soldered both sides but it's a real pain.
>
> If this works - remember you heard it here :-)
>
> Sage
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