Marvin, If you don't want to go through all the technical know-how and details of chemistry of plating then I would recommend you buy the plating solutions and necessary parts from someone who specializes in this. Markus has shown the group he has had good success with Bungards as a supplier. You can probably save money buying everything individually, such as anodes from an anode supplier, or sulfuric and copper sulfate from a chemical supplier, brighteners from a plating supplier. There should be electroplating suppliers in any industrialized city that has electroplating shops. It took me quite a few phone calls before I found what I needed. Its surprising how helpful some salesmen can be to the poor hobbyist trying to setup a plating apparatus. The chemicals are non-toxic, although corrosive and can burn skin & eyes. The problem may be buying small quantities. If the person at the electroplating supplier is not too busy he/she should happily sell you small quantity. I was lucky enough to get free 250 ml bottle of Macdermid brightener for acid copper sulfate plating, simply because it wasn't worth their effort selling so small amount. That gave me enough brightener to make 90 liters of plating solution. Don't bother trying to buy supplies from PCB fabricators or plating shops. I went to about 6 different places and not ONE of them was willing to sell me anything. Your anodes must be phosphorized copper or they won't form the black protective film during dissolution. Anodes are sold at electroplating suppliers as nuggets, bars, ect. I bought 1 kg of nuggets because the bars were too big and expensive. The nuggets sit in a sack made from outdoor plastic shade cloth (polyethylene). A connection is made by 2mm^2 PVC coated solid wire to one of the nuggets, which contacts the remaining nuggets. I drilled a hole in the nugget to neatly fit the solid wire and used a nail punch to crimp the outside of the nugget. Some PVC solvent cement sealed the wire connection at the nugget. If you can get small anode bars then they will be easier to use than nuggets. My tank is 250 mm x 340 mm base and 320 mm high. Liquid depth is 250 mm. Maxium PCB capcity is 300x200mm. Spacing between the middle of the anode and PCB surface is about 90 mm. There are two anodes in total giving one on each side of the PCB. The anodes sacks are about 60 mm diameter at the widest part. Each anode weights about 500g. There is polypropylene anode bags as recommended in the Macdermid brightener datasheet. I bought one large anode bag form the supplier and cut it to size, then sowed together with 100% polyester thread. I usually plate between 2 and 3 A /dm^2, but go down to 1.5A/dm^2 in cold temperatures (<15\ufffdC) in order to maintain a bright plating finish. Solution agitation by air bubbles using homemade air diffuser (two lengths of PVC pipe 1 mm holes each spaced 25 mm) and a good aquarium air pump. There are lead weights at the bottom which stop the diffusor from floating. Tank holds 22 liters of plating solution and constructed from gray 4.5mm ridged PVC sheet. All plastic joints are hand welded. Adam. mpdickens wrote: > Hello Markus! > > Your station is most excellent! Questions: > > 1.) What/who's chemistry are you using? > 2.) How many volts/amps do you? Are you > using a formula to calculate > voltage/amperage verses board size? > 3.) What is the composition of your anodes > and what is thier weight/size? > > > Before I saw what you had done, I had already begun > construction of a similar thru-hole plating system. > Like you, I came to the conclusion that what I needed > was a station that was built on time tested > technology. In other words, I wanted to build a > smaller version of > what large companies use to thru-hole plate (In fact, > all of the tools/fixtures/equipment I have made are > based on proven industry technology). > > Currently, I have the tank, card holders and > circulation system completed. I still have > build/engineer the rectifier (power supply), purchase > anodes and descide on a chemistry. My plan is to > complete this station, work the kinks/problems out and > then build a tinning station. > > Your station is of professional quality. Further, > I am impressed (Not that it really matters...). > FWIW, you may want to cross post/link your station > to: > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Electroplating > > > Best regards > > > Marvin Dickens >
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: copper plating
2003-11-03 by Adam Seychell
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