Homebrew PCBs

On the web page of Steinel I posted you also can see the accessories
available. I use the "Reduction nozzle, 9 mm" to bend the material and
the "Welding nozzle" for the real welding operation. Works quite
nicely.

Markus

>A friend of mine has got one of those Steinel LCD guns, I 
>should of tried it before spending my money on that old and 
>used Leister hot air welder. The air pressure from a hot air 
>welder is a lot higher than a heat gun, so I'm not sure how 
>well it will work, but if you had successfully built your 
>tanks from it then I cannot see any major problem with using 
>a general purpose hot air gun. All the reducing nozzles for 
>hot air guns also have a side vent that can get annoying. 
>The side vent is probably there to prevent too much 
>restriction of air flow.
>
>Adam
>
>Markus Zingg wrote:
>
>> Seinel Modell HL2305 LCD
>> 
>> I really can highly recomend this one. It's not even that expensive.
>> 
>> http://www.steinel.de/englisch/index.html 
>> 
>> there click on "Products for DIY ers" then on "Hot Air Guns" it's the
>> first one on the left.
>> 
>> Markus 
>> 
>> 
>>>Markus,
>>>
>>>Which hot air gun do you use?
>>>
>>>Simon
>>>
>>>On 5 Nov 2003, at 07:40, markuszingg wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Adam Seychell
>>>><adam_seychell@y...> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>This weekend I played around with my hot air welder again, trying
>>>>>to get better  practice. I bought three types or welding rod, and
>>>>>small and large triangle type and a 3 mm round, each type comes
>>>>>in 50 rods per pack. I found triangle is the best. For 4.5mm
>>>>>sheet I use the larger triangle, for 3 mm sheet I use the small
>>>>>triangle rods. Practice on lots of scrap pieces and then try and
>>>>>break the weld when cooled. A *really* good weld will not break
>>>>>at the weld, but rather the sheet its self will break. The trick
>>>>>is to get the right temperature setting and nozzle distance from
>>>>>the work piece. There is a fine line between burning the plastic
>>>>>and not heating it enough to properly fuse. If the temperature is
>>>>>too low then it takes too long to melt the plastic and so too
>>>>>much heat transfers to the bulk of the material, which makes
>>>>>everything deform and then you cannot push hard of the rod. If
>>>>>the heat is too hot then it very easy to burns the plastic which
>>>>>contaminates it with carbon and produces a weak weld.
>>>>>
>>>>>Adam
>>>>
>>>>Hi Adam
>>>>
>>>>The trick that I use is the hot air welding gun itself. It's
>>>>temperature is automatically controlled and it is having a digital
>>>>display showing the temperature which also can be used to set the
>>>>temperature requested. It then takes the gun probably 10 seconds or
>>>>so to reach a new temeparature level and it then stays there. This
>>>>really helps a lot in getting consistent good results.
>>>>
>>>>Markus
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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>>>>
>>>
>>>Simon Whitehead
>>>s.whitehead@...
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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>
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