I thought I'd toss this into the group: here is a link for a very inexpensive plastic welder: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41592 It plugs into 110 volt a.c., and requires a compressed air source. I use one of these, and plug it into an air compressor. It comes with (I'm guessing) about 20 feet of air hose, an air regulator (to adjust the air flow at the tip), and the electrical cord to plug into 110 volt. However, there is no temperature thermostat on this welder, but I find that by adjusting the distance I hold the welder to the work, I can sufficiently regulate the temperature. Marty -----Original Message----- From: Markus Zingg [mailto:m.zingg@...] Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 6:41 AM To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: pvc hot air welding Hi Adam >I can see the 3 mm sheet being bent that way say upto 300 mm >in length. I made a plastic bender because I was planing on >doing larger tanks 450 mm length on 4.5mm thick PVC. You >seem to have done things quite nicely with what you've got. > >What thickness material are you using ? 2mm and 4mm. >Did you have to reinforce all the welding zones with blocks >of wood before you started welding so that the "hobby glass" >sheets didn't bend under the heat ? They too bend under heat. What I did was first (using the 9mm reducion nozzle) bend a long sheet (25x65cm) to a 'U' shape. I did this by first bending one side, placing the sheet on a table into a 90degree angle and let it cool out, then bend the second side. I thereafter palced a thick wood block on the table as a base (in order to prevent burning the table) and also created a little peace of wood that fit's into the 'U' measuring ~4.5cm x 3cm using 5mm think wood. I then could put the 'U' onto the side part (9x30cm) and place the wood into the 'U' to prevent it from loosing shape. I then used one hand to hold the 'U' down and also feed the plastic into the welder (of course this time unsing the welding nozzle) and the other to hold the hot air gun. It takes some practice but onece you figured it out it works not that bad. You somehow miss a third hand :)) >I found that I had to make special wooden frame inserted >into the tank so that during welding the pressure of the >welding rod didn't collapse the sheets. See above, you probably did the same thing then. > From your past posts on the "hobby glass" I get the feeling >this is ridged clear pvc sheeting. Try burning some and see >how it compares to flame color/smoke smell to some real PVC. >PVC is very difficult to get burning by its self and >produces a harsh smelling smoke, (HCl fumes). I'm currently not at home, so can't try this right away. I happen to know how PVC smells when burning. Some 22 years ago I happend to learn tool maker as my first profession where we were building molds to fabricate plastic parts. I have a collection of the diverse plastic base materials somewhere. Have to grab that out and compare the flames/fumes of them with the glass I'm using. Markus Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=267637.4116730.5333196.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=17050832 91:HM/A=1754452/R=0/SIG=11tn6fnpm/*http:/www.netflix.com/Default?mqso=601783 24&partid=4116730> click here <http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=267637.4116730.5333196.1261774/D=egroupmai l/S=:HM/A=1754452/rand=715585243> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Terms of Service. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: pvc hot air welding
2003-11-05 by Marty Grove
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