Hi Adam Sorry for the late reply - terribly busy times here. >Thanks for the descriptions. What are the internal >dimensions of the tanks. They are made to contain 2 and 4.5 liters respectively with a certain "security" zone so as I don't have to fill them completely up. The dimensions are therefore 4x25x29 cm with side pannels sized 9x30. The bigger tank is identical except that it's 9 cm wide. All these measures are internal dimesions. >From your web pages I can see 4 >smaller ones and one larger one for the copper >electroplating. From your pictures the tanks look like they >were made from 3 mm sheet. Uhmmm they are actually just 2mm :) >Did you consider putting an outer >lip on the tops of the tanks ? Yes, but it turned out that it's not necesairly needed. I WILL replace the tanks though but mostly only because I want to try to build them with a faster & easier method. I'm thinking of makeing the side pannels from 4mm sheets and then mill a "U shaped track" into them where I can sink the 'U' formed sheets into. This should make the welder process easier and also make it more rigid. An outer lip seems like a good idea. I must say that I like the fact that the tanks are "clear". You can see a lot better what's going on and of course if a tank should ever start to leak this would be seen much faster. My "next generation" tanks also will have a tube inside that allows to pump the liquid out of the tanks into a dedicated bottle per bath. Like this I can further minimize that something happens to the chemicals, overall, keep them cleaner and also avoid that parts of the liquids vaporize. Especially the cleaning bath (#1) and also the activator bath (#4) show this tendency. Well, #1 is really almost behaves like water. Luckyly this is also the cheapest bath. I definately will try this milling thing as soon as my CNC drilling machine gets ready. The material is all ready for long (you may can imagine how hot I am to start puting it together) but as mentioned, terribly busy times here. I'm working 18+ hours at 7 days for now 9 months or so.. Luckyly there is meanwhile a silver stripe on the horizon. >I found that using lots of spring clamps are VERY helpful >when welding. I clamp a large piece of chipboard to the >bench so it hung out about 40 cm, I then could do all my >work on this board and easily clamp things from underneath >using sliding G clamps. Hmmm, I unfortunately don't understand english good enough to know what you mean. If you could make a picuture of that process I'm sure it would become much clearer. Markus >Markus Zingg wrote: >> Hi Adam >> >> >>>I can see the 3 mm sheet being bent that way say upto 300 mm >>>in length. I made a plastic bender because I was planing on >>>doing larger tanks 450 mm length on 4.5mm thick PVC. You >>>seem to have done things quite nicely with what you've got. >>> >>>What thickness material are you using ? >> >> >> 2mm and 4mm. >> >> >>>Did you have to reinforce all the welding zones with blocks >>>of wood before you started welding so that the "hobby glass" >>>sheets didn't bend under the heat ? >> >> >> They too bend under heat. What I did was first (using the 9mm reducion >> nozzle) bend a long sheet (25x65cm) to a 'U' shape. I did this by >> first bending one side, placing the sheet on a table into a 90degree >> angle and let it cool out, then bend the second side. I thereafter >> palced a thick wood block on the table as a base (in order to prevent >> burning the table) and also created a little peace of wood that fit's >> into the 'U' measuring ~4.5cm x 3cm using 5mm think wood. I then could >> put the 'U' onto the side part (9x30cm) and place the wood into the >> 'U' to prevent it from loosing shape. I then used one hand to hold the >> 'U' down and also feed the plastic into the welder (of course this >> time unsing the welding nozzle) and the other to hold the hot air gun. >> It takes some practice but onece you figured it out it works not that >> bad. You somehow miss a third hand :)) >> >> >>>I found that I had to make special wooden frame inserted >>>into the tank so that during welding the pressure of the >>>welding rod didn't collapse the sheets. >> >> >> See above, you probably did the same thing then. >> >> >>>From your past posts on the "hobby glass" I get the feeling >>>this is ridged clear pvc sheeting. Try burning some and see >>>how it compares to flame color/smoke smell to some real PVC. >>>PVC is very difficult to get burning by its self and >>>produces a harsh smelling smoke, (HCl fumes). >> >> >> I'm currently not at home, so can't try this right away. I happen to >> know how PVC smells when burning. Some 22 years ago I happend to learn >> tool maker as my first profession where we were building molds to >> fabricate plastic parts. I have a collection of the diverse plastic >> base materials somewhere. Have to grab that out and compare the >> flames/fumes of them with the glass I'm using. >> >> Markus >> >> >> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files: >> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs >> >> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: >> Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com >> >> >> >> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ >> >> > > > >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files: >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs > >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: >Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ >
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: pvc hot air welding
2003-11-07 by Markus Zingg
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