Homebrew PCBs

hi thanks for quick reply,

On 3/25/2013 10:07 AM, Mitch Davis wrote:
>
> On Mon, Mar 25, 2013 at 10:33 AM, Hari Hendaryanto <hari.h@... 
> <mailto:hari.h%40csmcom.com>> wrote:
> >
> > i'm a newbie on photoresist method. i've read homebrew's archives/forum
> > about how to stick dry film to pcb,
>
> Have you tried different temperature settings and times for your iron?
> For example, a lower temperature? A higher temperature but for a
> shorter time? What do the instructions for the resist say?
>
datasheet says it should be around 70 - 150 degree celcius, that if 
using laminator. i used moderate warm iron, though (still able touching 
iron w/o hurting my hand).
>
>
> Also, the copper of the PCB must be really really clean (this goes for
> any method involving bare copper). You can clean it with a scouring
> pad (not steel wool, the green 3M ones work well), then use IPA
> (isopropyl alcohol) or denatured alcohol and paper to scrub the board
> until you're no longer getting any crap on the paper. That will help
> the resist stick to the copper.
>
i used scotch brite, wash the pcb using water then, i've never tried 
alcohol.
>
>
> This is probably a dumb idea, but when applying sticky films, often a
> layer of water is sprayed onto the surface first. The water forms a
> very thin separator between the surface and the film. Air bubbles and
> the water can then be worked out with a squeegee, to the point where
> there's no air and no water. You might be able to try this, followed
> by something like a heating period in an oven. Experiment!
>
i tried laminate dry film onto pcb under water. i guess somehow i'm not 
ironing properly in order to stick dry film evently to pcb surface or 
some part of water still stuck between polymer and pcb :D.

thanks
>
>
> Good luck,
>
> Mitch.
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]