Hari, Could you share with us the name of the company that makes your transparencies? 73, Todd ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ K7TFC / Medford, Oregon, USA / CN82ni / UTC-8 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ QRP (CW & SSB) / EmComm / SOTA / Homebrew / Design On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 3:09 AM, Hari Hendaryanto <hari.h@...> wrote: > ** > > > i'm using old hp laser printer, i think it ran out of toner. i've found > printing company that will accept printing transparencies in small > quantities, one or two pieces with excellent density/opacity at > reasonable price. i think i'll go that way. but thanks for your > suggestion :) > > regards > hari > > On 4/8/2013 6:24 PM, tda7000 wrote: > > > > If your printout is not dark enough, you can try darkening with a > > black whiteboard marker. (more info in the group posts) I've used that > > trick with good results on printouts from my own printer. > > > > I tried it on printouts from the local copy shop but it did not work > > at all. I think their toner may be different in some way than mine. It > > certainly feels quite different if I run my fingers over the printout. > > > > When using their copier I print 2 copies and double up. Works great > > (apart from the annoyance of doing the alignment) 6 Minute exposure > > time with standard UV LEDs, Then I leave it in the dark to cure for 10 > > minutes before developing. > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Boman33" <boman33@...> wrote: > > > > > > Great progress! > > > > > > Always leave a small piece of aluminum foil in the excess margin if > > possible > > > to get a reference of guaranteed no exposure. I used to have a step > > wedge > > > with the foil permanent attached at one end and then included the step > > > wedge in the exposures. > > > > > > Bertho > > > > > > > > > > > > From: Hari Hendaryanto Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 22:27 > > > > > > > > > > > > hey guys, > > > i finally can get my clumsy old hand doing phoresist thing :)) ( from > > > laminate until etching). not perfect, but it's the best pcb i've ever > > > had, need a little touch up, but i think that's because the opacity of > > > negative film i used. > > > > > > http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/7764/tebet2013040800294.jpg > > > > > > thanks for all your times and helps guys > > > > > > regards > > > > > > hari > > > > > > On 4/1/2013 6:45 PM, Hari Hendaryanto wrote: > > > > > > > > i'm sorry for late reply, i got my mails end up in spam filter, i've > > > > just noticed and released it. sounds like another solution for me, > and > > > > thanks for that :), i was trying james sugestion and have an adequate > > > > results. i'm getting better with this thing :). i'll take a look > > on the > > > > video. > > > > > > > > anyway, i saw some dry film not rolled/curled back (stay flat). i was > > > > using dry film that rolled back after cut. that was a problem too, > > > > especially when separating thin plastic part from polymer (i used > tape > > > > on both corner side). but i think i just have to make more practice.. > > > > > > > > thanks for all your supports guys :) > > > > > > > > regards > > > > hari > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Message
Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: any chance stick dry film to pcb w/o laminator ?
2013-04-10 by Todd F. Carney / K7TFC
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