Homebrew PCBs

Correct. I find that document protectors or most clear vinyl products make a 
nice glossy finish and don't stick. Anything made from acetate will stick. 
No need to let it dry (that's what the UV is for). I use xylene or denatured 
alcohol to clean off the unexposed residue. I don't think it could be 
properly classified as paint. It's more like varnish. It has tint, not 
pigment.
--
Phil M.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Sleeman" <bitsyboffin@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 5:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: shelving vinyl toner transfer


> Gustavo Villada wrote:
>>
>>
>> http://www.instructables.com/id/Professional-Home-Brew-PCB-Creating-a-solder-mask/?ALLSTEPS
>> the secret is the UV paint.
>>
>
> Make sure you read the comments on that instructables.  The guy who
> wrote the instructions advocates drying the paint first, in short, he's
> doing it wrong.
>
> Also, cellophane bags are good for the plastic covering (at least true
> cellophane).  Some plastics are no good as the ink bonds to them just as
> well as to the board.
>
> Spread ink thinly, too thick and it doesn't cure to the bottom.
>
> Exposure time is long (25-30 minutes), although a short exposure during
> your initial experimentinng will be strong enough to see how it went but
> easier to clean off and re-use your test piece.
>
> After cleaning off the pads, give the board another healthy dose of UV
> to really be sure that it's cooked to perfection.
>
>
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