Homebrew PCBs

Rick

I have had equal success using ink jet photo paper from our local pound shop. It is a heavy weight paper, 10 sheets for one UK pound, and the toner separation was complete. It seems that the freezing after thermal transfer is the key. The 0.005" boundary lines even transferred.

Malcolm
 
I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 8/13/13, Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote:

 Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Easy Fast Laser Print DIY Circuit Boards - Dave's toner-transfer freezing technique
 To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
 Date: Tuesday, August 13, 2013, 11:56 PM
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
   
 
 
     
       
       
       James,
 
 
 
 This is what I bought:
 
 
 
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/A4-10Pcs-Sheets-Heat-Toner-Transfer-Paper-For-DIY-PC
 
 B-Electronic-Prototype-Mak-/170900415631
 
 
 
 Rick
 
 
 
 -----Original Message-----
 
 From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
 
 On Behalf Of James Newton
 
 Sent: Friday, August 09, 2013 11:11 AM
 
 To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
 
 Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Easy Fast Laser Print DIY
 Circuit Boards -
 
 Dave's toner-transfer freezing technique
 
 
 
 Rick, can you share the source, part number and mfgr, or any
 other details
 
 about the "special waxed paper"?
 
 
 
 --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com,
 "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...> wrote:
 
 >
 
 > The special waxed paper came in WAY ahead of the
 promise date - got it
 
 today. Wonderful material! I drafted a 1" long scale
 with 10 major and 30
 
 minor divisions on it using DesignCAD V14. It was then
 printed, mirror
 
 image, onto the wax paper. I printed 4 coupons at a time.
 Two of these
 
 coupons were taped to 2 small pieces of copper plate.
 
 > 
 
 >  
 
 > 
 
 > I ran my copper plates with the waxed paper on top
 through my laminator 10
 
 times. Then I put the samples in the freezer for 15, not 30
 minutes. The
 
 paper fell away from the toner. Then I dropped the two
 samples in rather
 
 used up ferric chloride that I put out in the Arizona sun.
 Every 15 minutes
 
 I would bump the container. After an hour I pulled out the
 samples. The
 
 toner was solid and I had etched down about 0.001"
 according to my caliper.
 
 The fine lines of the scale and numbers all looked perfect.
 
 > 
 
 >  
 
 > 
 
 > My last small challenge is figuring out how to color
 the background and
 
 leave the raised copper areas shiny. I tried coating the
 entire surface and
 
 then abrading the raised area. Didn't do a very good job
 but the technique
 
 shows promise.
 
 > 
 
 >  
 
 > 
 
 
 
 ------------------------------------
 
 
 
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