Here's a set of tool changer plans for a Sherline Headstock: http://home.insightbb.com/~joevicar3/default.htm It uses a single air cylinder - no motors. -- Dave Hylands Vancouver, BC, Canada http://www.DaveHylands.com/ > -----Original Message----- > From: mpdickens [mailto:md30022@...] > Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 9:37 PM > To: Homebrew_PCBs@...m > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Homebrew Tool Changer > > > > --- bsjoelund <tecnoconsult@...> wrote: > > Hi, > > > > I´m looking for small/miniature tool changer for PCB drilling. > > Any links - pictures - ideas ?? > > Hello Bengt, > > This is robotics and robotics is as much an art as a > science. Further, robotics can provide humbling > experiences as well as be exceptionally rewarding > (Both experiences the same time...). For drill bits, > excluding the ability to position the head of the > drill (The head of the drill is called a chuck in the > America. I don't know what they call it elsewhere...) > at the correct latitude/logitude/altitude, you going > to need quantity-4 servo motors and quanity-1 > sensor.(I don't think you can change a drill bit with > less than four motors and one sensor). Three of the > motors *must* have a high tork and all motors must > step in fine steps. > > Some drills have keyless chucks and some have keyed > chucks. This example assumes a keyed chuck: > > Motor A: Pushes the key up to and into the chuck. > Motor B: Adjusts the key to fit the gears of the chuck > Motor C: Rotates key to tighten/loosen the chuck > Motor D: Rotates what is known as a "lazy susan" > > A lazy susan is a round table that in this case has > holes in it that the drill bits sit in (Standing up) > The drill bits are changed over the lazy susan. > Further, the lazy susan rotates. > > It would work like this: > > The drill head has no drill bit in it. The drill head > now moves over to the lazy susan. The head is lowered > down to the lazy susan directly over the desired drill > bill. Motor A pushes the key up to and into the chuch > while Motor B is *slowly* rotating the key. Once the > gears on the key catch with the gears on the chuck > (This is a predetermined distance plus or minus a > small distance. The gear catch is also monitored by a > senor that measures tork. Further, They make chips > that measure tork), Motor A stops and Motor B > continues to turn the key to tighten the chuck (This > is a predetermined number of rotations for each drill > bit and size. Also, tightening is monitored by > another tork sensor). The sensors are "fail safes" for > the both distance and tork which is predetermined, > but *estimated*. Once the prodecure is complete your > good to go. Reverse the processes to take the bit out > of the drill head/chuck. > > What you want to do requires very fine motor steps > combined with software that does not glitch during the > process. This process definately is an embedded system > thing and should be automomous: In other words, the > drill files should be handed to the embedded system > and the computer that hands the embedded system the > drill file should stay out of the process (Which > greatly simplifies the software. Further, this makes > debugging MUCH MUCH MUCH easier...) > > If I were going to do this, I would look at: > > A.) Existing products and how they work mechanically. > B.) Tape libraries for extra idea's and inspiration. > > Figure everything out that you can before purchasing > anything, spinning the first wrench or writing any > code. Also, draw schematics of how it's going to be > buildt and how it will work. Flow chart the software. > Keep damn good notes while > building/programing/testing. > Keep rescipts from your purchases in case you buy the > wrong part and want to return it. Do business with > small to medium size companies while prototyping. Cut > a deal with them that you can return anything you > don't need if you have not used it and it's not > special order (Anybody who will not cut this type of > deal, don't do business with them. Don't fall for the > 15% restock BS fee. There are too many companies out > there that will work with you the right way). > > Good luck and best regards > > > Marvin Dickens > Alpharetta, Georgia USA > > ===== > Registered Linux User No. 80253 > If you use linux, get counted at: > http://www.linuxcounter.org > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now > http://companion.yahoo.com/ > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor > ---------------------~--> Buy Ink Cartridges or Refill Kits > for your HP, Epson, Canon or Lexmark Printer at MyInks.com. > Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US & Canada. http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511 http://us.click.yahoo.com/mOAaAA/3exGAA/qnsNAA/bGYolB/TM ---------------------------------------------------------------------~-> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Homebrew Tool Changer
2003-12-03 by Dave Hylands
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