Homebrew PCBs

Brad

Try putting the board and paper in the freezer for 20 minutes before you try to peel.  Works for me.

Malcolm

I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it! 
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin 
The writing is on the wall. 
Ha-ktovet al ha-kir

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On Mon, 5/30/16, 'Brad' unclefalter@... [Homebrew_PCBs] <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 Subject: RE: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First attempt at toner transfer
 To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
 Date: Monday, May 30, 2016, 5:32 PM
 
 
  
 
 
 
   
 
 
     
       
       
       Thanks guys.  Yeah, I’m kind of suspicious
 about my toner here.  I’ve noticed before that, say,
 original HP toner tends to have a more ‘shiny’
 appearance than the ‘compatible’ stuff does.  I assumed
 there was something different there.  I’m getting probably 75%
 transferred after 10 minutes.. and it’s got great adhesion
 once it does and is nice and crisp – but I just can’t
 seem to get all of it.  I’m wondering if my magazine
 (Macleans) pages aren’t up to snuff.  Or my
 iron.  Brad  From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] 
 Sent: Monday, May 30, 2016 8:48 AM
 To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: First
 attempt at toner transfer    The acetone or alcohol should
 not add any oil or other unwanted organic material to the
 board. As long as all of the cleaner is removed from the
 board I'm not sure there is any benefit of using acetone
 other than helping remove traces of water quicker.
 
 You should clean the board
 shortly before you use it. If it sits around or a day or
 maybe less depending on the environment it will pick up a
 film of organic material and will also tend to oxidize.
 
 As to toner, you may need to
 experiment. Most people say that Brother brand printers do
 not work because toner has a higher melting point. The
 general consensus is that toner from the original
 manufacturer tends to work well. Replacement cartridges from
 other sources may or may not work well. The claim is some
 suppliers use less plastic in their toner mix (the plastic
 is what gets melted and binds and fuses the toner to the
 paper). If true, it is probably not the cost of the plastic
 as a raw material which is so expensive but the cost of
 producing it in the small particle size required. What makes
 up the rest of the volume when less plastic is used I have
 no idea, possibly more pigment or some other filler with a
 small particle size.
 
 Craig
 
 ---In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com,
 <unclefalter@...> wrote :Thanks muchly and
 one other question if I may.. does it make any difference
 using original vs reman/compatible toner?  I have
 compatible right now.  The only thing I have with original
 toner is my big Minolta copier. Also just a
 clarification.. if I use Comet and then acetone won’t that
 leave me in the same place with respect to
 oils? 
 
 
     
      
 
     
     
 
 
 
 #yiv7886284524 #yiv7886284524 --