On Tue, 12 Jul 2016 17:17:17 +0200, you wrote: > > > > > > > >Thanks to Harvey, DuWayne and Ancel for your replies. > > >For the moment, My PCBs are made with a CNC router. Unfortunately, in a short while, I won't any longer have access to it. Prior to going into tremendous tests, I prefer to prepare the ground... > > > > >This confirm that the substrate must be hot. The temperature is depending on a lot of factors and trials look to be the best way to proceed. One parameter at a time. The reason for going through the laminator (perhaps see any previous posts that I have made) for 6 to 8 times is that the board warms up to the right temperature (wear gloves) after about 4 passes. > > >About the transparent film, I remember that there were several kinds of materials we were used to use when making slides. One time, a guy used the wrong one and wrapped the foil around the printer cylinder, it was completely stuck, what a mess ! So better to Double or triple check the printing temp cylinder as well as the film temp withstanding before putting it into the printer. ! > >Another idea went to my mind, inkjet printers use clay coated papers. Perhaps, they're the same as Harvey told about. Did anyone give a try to the inkjet paper ? Inkjets may have a plastic coated paper to absorb the ink. That will melt (likely) in a laser printer. I'd only use something that is rated for laser printers. For toner transfer, you want a weak bond to the paper, and then an easy release. Dextrose coated papers do this. Some may or may not have had good results with transparent film. I haven't tried it in years. Harvey > > >kind regards > > >
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hot PCB toner Transfer
2016-07-12 by Harvey White
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