Homebrew PCBs

Yes sorry.. typed.  AL13P.  I’m hoping it’ll let me do my white foil transfers for silkscreen purposes.  $79!  Wow.. yeah haven’t seen one that cheap anywhere.  

 

Brad

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2016 2:53 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hot PCB toner Transfer

 

  

Do you mean the  <https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012UEQ5C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1> Apache AL13P ? If it you did, it's a great laminator, with the right modifications it will do PCBs in one pass. The were on sale on Amazon for a while, I got mine for $79 but they have not been available for a while.

On 7/13/2016 3:48 PM, 'Brad' unclefalter@... <mailto:unclefalter@...>  [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:

  

I just bought one of those Apache A113Ps off ebay for $175US – I read they do foil transfers reasonably well also?

 

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>  [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2016 12:20 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> 
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Hot PCB toner Transfer

 

  

Yellow ebay toner transfer paper is fine & convenient. Magazine paper is 
ok as well, takes some soaking to get off, but heavy colour photos 
(such as in Astronomy mag) can compromise the transfer, so u want more 
text mags.
In both cases, sticking the transfer paper onto regular printer paper 
with masking tape and offsetting the print down a bit prevents the laser 
roller from getting paper jams from the thinner transfer paper.
I optimize my yellow toner transfer paper use by printing the outer 
dimension of the PCB on a plain sheet first, then sticking a correctly 
sized piece or cutting of toner transfer paper in the correct spot 
(masking tape) and feeding the print through a second time. This time 
with all the copper and silk screens layers active so they print on the 
transfer paper alone.

HP1102W printer with cheap , non oem Toner works fine at about 330 to 
340°F via my automated multipass APache Al13P process. I do 10 mil 
traces reliably. I can turn a single sided board around in about 10 
mins. Double sided takes longer due to registration drill holes and 
alignments.

Regular craft laser foil (laminator) is used to finalize the board 
before etching for solid pours and colored silk screens.

Cutting PCB can be done with a carbide tile cutting scribe or a 4" 
diamond bladed table saw which is very precise for FR-1 PCB. FR-1 snaps 
badly from scribing.
Proxxon tooling for drilling are much better than Dremel. Saves a lot 
on not breaking carbide bits!. I can carve slots with my Proxxon 
drill/press and a 1/16" carbide bit in the PCB.

Ancel

 

 





-- 
Cecil - k5nwa
http://thepartsplace.k5nwa.com/