Homebrew PCBs

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 14:00:31 -0500, you wrote:

>YES
>its called the PANTUM laser printer brand new for $34
>
>https://youtu.be/WQ0QPcXfuPo
>

If you buy a new laser printer, then I'd consider direct printing if
it's a known one that can be modified to do this, otherwise, all
you're interested in would be the fuser assembly.  The temperature
controller is on the main board, so you would have to roll your own.
Generally an Arduino would do well enough for this.  However you
decide to drive the roller is up to you.  The advantages of this
approach is that if you are going to stay with paper based toner
transfer, you get a laminator that is designed for the high
temperatures.

Harvey



>
>
>On 12/26/2016 10:20 AM, Harvey White madyn@... 
>[Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
>>
>> On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 22:43:13 -0700, you wrote:
>>
>> >The Harbor Freight laminator doesn't get hot enough for the Brother
>> >toner. In the process of raising the temperature I managed to soften the
>> >gears to the point where they no longer turned the rollers. Replacing
>> >the plastic gears with metal ones solves that problem, but only if the
>> >plastic supports for the shafts are made of a higher temperature plastic.
>> >
>> >I am not familiar with the GBC laminator, except through reading about
>> >it here in the group, so I don't know about what kind of gears it has.
>> >If it works, don't fix it.
>>
>> Has anyone considered buying a junked laser printer from a thrift
>> store, and using the fuser assembly?
>>
>> It would need some mechanical and electrical work, but that's what
>> you're talking about anyway, just perhaps a bit more....
>>
>> (the other) Harvey
>>
>> >
>> >Harvey
>> >
>> >
>> >On 12/25/2016 8:35 PM, me@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
>> >>
>> >> What is the advantage to swapping out gears? I have been using a GBC
>> >> Heatseal H212 for a number of years now with no issues. The only
>> >> modification I made was to remove some guides to allow the PCB to pass
>> >> through.
>> >>
>> >>
>>
>>