Homebrew PCBs

I have been using Toner Transfer with very good results!
I scrub my boards with very fine scotch-brite pads. They are grey colored and they are available 
at auto parts stores. They are finer than 220 grit and give good tooth for the toner to attach to.The green ones in the supermarket are usable but they are a coarser grit.I use Isopropyl alcohol or acetone. the other cleaners are ok also but you have to rinse the board well.
I gave up on using an iron! I found a top of the line GBC H525 laminator  on line and I got it withshipping for less than $100 on ebay. I pass my boards through 10 times.
regards
Mike
 

    On Sunday, July 9, 2017 11:07 AM, "Rob roomberg@ptd.net [Homebrew_PCBs]" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

      I had not tried alcohol.
 I've been using 220 grit sandpaper per your advice...since  a year ago?
 Then I used acetone to clean up the fingerprint oil and sanding dirt.
 Not that fingerprints are a problem... I always wear heavy 9mil nitrile gloves when playing with PCBs.  
 
 Is the iso-prpyl wipe anything more than or different than using a tough paper towel and 91% alcohol?
 
 I had experimented with transfer craft metallic foil but really didn't need the foil after using a Sharpie.
 I can see using the foil for massively complicated or detailed  circuits that would test patience tracing a whole board with a Sharpie. But nothing I do is that complicated.
  
 
 
 On 07/09/2017 10:29 AM, AncelB mosaicmerc@... [Homebrew_PCBs] wrote:
  
    Genuine or non oem HP toner works for me. For the pitting problem I 
 transfer craft metallic foil on top of the toner before etching. It's a 
 well known practice and reliable.
 
 Rather than using acetone or citronella to prepare/clean the copper I 
 use 220 grit sandpaper and an iso-propyl wipe which makes the toner 
 'grip' the oil free copper. Even fingerprints can interfere so handle 
 the edges of the PCB. As a test I polished/lapped copper and tried the 
 identical transfer with poor results all other things being the same.
 
 Also, before I did the metal foiling, I used to use a silver sharpie to 
 'fill' in the toner transfer for any breaks or potential pitting and 
 then etch.
 
 I have done literally hundreds of double sided boards and even boards 
 for RF use to 1Ghz with toner transfer. It works.
 
 Ancel