Homebrew PCBs

congratulation
cold you post some picture of the equipment? and some schematics maybe?
the fuser works ok even if you dont use it at full power.think of him as a light bulb.
the new type fusers work at a lower temperature (around 120 celsis) the older around 180 celsius.youu could use the original stepper motor to drive the fuser.just make a driver for the stepper with L297 and 4 power fet transistors.(search the net for milling machines)


Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
Hi all,

Good news, the Fuser works perfectly.

I have set it to 160 degree C (measured) and it worked not very well the 
first time.
(i let the board through maybe 6 times and only in one orientation, back 
and forth (hand drive).
each pass was about 7 seconds (one direction) )

about half of the tracks did come off after soaking.
BAD.

I did decide it may need longer fusing.
cleaned, printed, starting over again.

10 passes this time.
VERY slow, 10-15 seconds one pass.
i put it through a different side first each time.

took some time, BUT it worked perfectly.
not a single piece of toner did come off.
even the board outline is complete this time which i never achieved using 
the iron.
(the last time using the iron i decided i make a second board outline just 
outside
the first, hoping it will take the damage.. - wrong guess, both went off.)


so, the short story:

A fuser works VERY WELL.
i took the unit out of a ricoh copier.

I need to make a motor for it now, with slow gearing.
and i need to put the thermostat in a housing.

(does anyone know if it harms the quartz heater lamp running
on "orange" half power, because then i will add some hysteresis
to get it either full on of full off....??)


If anyone is still using a iron -> get yourself a fuser or a laminator.
it IS worth the effort, i had strong doubt but the result is convincing.


there is about 10 to 20% widening of the tracks, i may just draw thinner 
ones
or maybe play with the pressure springs. they are on the front lifting
the bearings of the lower roller with levers, easily acessible, i could
even use a adjusting screw (for different board sizes)...




ST



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