Homebrew PCBs

Stefan Trethan wrote:

> 
> Using the same post in multiple groups, are you? (not this one).
> clever....
> 

   Well just thought the driver will apply some to the LRK as well eventually



> 
> How do i make a copper oxyde layer (not that i say i will do it but just
> in case.....)
> 

   Haven't really looked it up but many things are oxidizers.  Don't remember 
which way to go off hand but should be doable with something from the 
supermarket, like baking soda etc.  Most things are easy to oxidize and hard to 
reverse, shouldn't take much chemical help to make a thin layer.



> 
> but you could try to make it as wide as possible.
> 
> A schematic of the power supply would be useful to figure out how it 
> works, but i guess
> it can be done with some back engineering. I think a 20 or 30 percent more 
> will certainly
> work without arcing or such.
> 

   Yep with more gap and more voltage to hold it on may let it do a bit more, 
but too much may smear etc so not sure if it'll be useful much beyond what the 
manufacturer designed for.  Still shouldn't be hard to try on an old laser.



> 
> 
> What i suggest to test:
> 
> let the copper stripe through the printer halfway, and then switch off the 
> power.
> now open the cover and take out the drum (with the cartridge).
> 
> Now see how much toner is left on the drum after the point of contact, and 
> how much
> is there before. compare to the areas where paper is.
> 

   Yes that would be a very good thing to see, I'll have to hunt up some copper 
foil myself and see how it works in my 6L, it's a good little printer.  Don't 
really want to mess up the drum though, but worth a little risk I suppose.  Heck 
I rarely use it for anything other than printing PCBs now anyway.

Alan