Well done... I guess you can't feed a pcb through? you might try to tape a sheet of aluminium foil on a paper and run it through. then you can inspect it under a microscope and you may also try to etch it (dunno which etchants attack aluminium. - HCL does) The fears i have are that either the drops leave space between them or the layer is too thin to resist the etchant. If that does not occur i see no further problems. would be very nice to have high-dpi pcbs with so little effort. Do you have a microscope to inspect the printout? or would you rather just try etching....? If that thing works you are definitely writing homebrew pcb history.. As said, sell a converted printer kit and get rich ;-) Best luck, and i look very forward to further results. ST Other thought: i read in the pc newspapers that the new inkjets use less ink on each point, some very few picoliters, maybe best results are possible with older printers. On Thu, 11 Mar 2004 21:08:18 -0000, pebo festus <mebo31@...> wrote: > got he epson stylus color II going, got the mixture of 15 ml > MOP&GLO,9 ml red food coloring, 9 ml water through the black print > head. had to clean the black print head several times,there is no way > of knowing how long the printer had sat drying out. was about to give > up when the new ink came through. it came out light colored print but > very clear and sharp letters, may need to be light when printing on a > pcb because the copper doesnt absorb the ink. had to set the > brightness as dark as could and the contrast as high as could. of > course this may change when printing on a pcb. > I am sure all the printer setting plus diferent mixture of liquids > will have to be adjusted as i work it out. > NOW----I dont know how long the print head will set being not used > before it drys out in the print head with this blend of liquids.the > piezo print head is working so far. > wish me luck > mebo
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Standard inkjet inks for etch resist?(yeeeehaaa))
2004-03-11 by Stefan Trethan
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